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I beat the "cabelas curse" on this rifle as it is in magnificent shape for its age. The wrist checkering is sharp and defined, action and springs in good shape. Screws are buggered sadly, but nothing cross threaded.
Googling to the best of ability, I found an old auction lot. The description stated it was in 9.3x72r. I decided screw it and bought it. Chamber cast and bore markings confirm it is 9.3x72r



There seems to be a need to re-work the sear engagement during cock on opening. Its striker doesnt securely engage the sear of the forward trigger.

Beautiful.

Thumbs up on that one. She is nice.

journeymen,
The bore (not groove or bullet) diameter marked as 118.35 very often works out as .357-.359" groove diameter. This will make finding bullets for handloading easy for you. You mentioned the need to rework sear engagement. You may need to do this but rifles with double set triggers are very often found with them out of adjustment. This is usually because the purpose of the screw behind the front trigger is misunderstood. This screw has no effect on the trigger pull when not "set", only when "set". I suggest you check the adjustment before working on the sear engagement. BTW the rifle doesn't have to be cocked to adjust and/or check the set triggers. Good luck, you are going to have fun with this one. You didn't ask, but it was proofed in August 1909 at the Zella Mehlis proof house.
Mike

Thank you Mike, I was unsure about the proof date but thank you for confirming it. The issue with the set trigger is that when you push it forward the striker is released. I could just be doing it wrong?

journeymen,
With a double set trigger that is properly adjusted, you "set" it by pulling the rear trigger until it "clicks". Then, to fire the rifle( with the safety off), you only have to "touch" the front trigger. If the safety is "on" the set trigger will trip if you touch it, but the rifle shouldn't fire. Since the safety is a mechanical device and might not work every time, the trigger should not be set until right before you shoot. If, for some reason, you don't take the shot you should open the rifle and trip the trigger. With practice, you can hold the rear trigger back and "ease" it forward; but you should still open the rifle first. With a double set trigger, there is no reason to push either one forward. However, some guns( such as combo guns and some single shots) have a single set trigger and you do push them forward to set them. Other than the different way to set them, they should be treated the same as double set triggers. Any set trigger is a separate mechanism that works independently of the safety or the mainspring/sear/hammer. You can fire the rifle without setting the trigger, by pulling the front one, but the "trigger pull" will be very poor.
Mike

Hmmm. I'll get some pictures of the trigger pack. The rear trigger wont pull rearward, but can be pushed forward. Maybe a spring is out of place?


Update 4/5/2022

I wasn't pulling hard enough on the set trigger for its ledge to engage on the main trigger. The sear surface on the striker is definately damaged though.

So far i've laser welded up the blown out sear surfaces and repaired the upper section of the broken safety. I'd really like to have all new retaining pins and screws made

journeymen,
Did you do the laser welding yourself? If so, I suggest weld up the buggered-up screw heads and recut them. That would save having to ID the thread and finding appropriate die(s). Maybe the pins could be repaired as well.
Mike

Yes. I'm doing these side projects at work until i can get official training on the laser machine. I'm working on the screw heads but the threads seem damaged as well. The pins are all tapered. I haven't gauged the holes to see if this is intentional.

journeymen,
Good for you, that is a very good skill to have. Tig is very useful also, but there are a few things that even it can't do. If the pins are tapered, you should be able to tell if the holes are also tapered by trying to put them in from the other side. It is your rifle but if it were mine, I wouldn't replace the pins if they are still useable.
Mike