Hi:

I am looking for an alternate butt plate to use on a "vintage" sporter.

In the past, I have used the ubiquitous Niedner butt plate and grip cap but I am now looking for a butt plate. On the last sporter that I did I used a Winchester M 70 butt plate but it appeared to be rather chunky and bulky. It did not have the deep bow in it nor was it rounded to the sides like the Neidner

Any suggestions as what I may use that would look great on a 1930-1950 era Springfield sporter?

Oh yes, I did a shotgun with a piece of Water Buffalo horn and it looked great. Perhaps a piece of horn would be the cat's pajamas.

TIA,

Franchi

I've wanted to try one of these
http://www.midwayusa.com/viewproduct/?productnumber=220258

Unfortunately, MidwayUSA no longer carries them and I haven't found another supplier.

PhysDoc

Midway carries the Miles Gilbert buttplate - and if you want more curvature, it's a simple matter to bend it to suit. Well, maybe not simple, but certainly doable.

http://www.midwayusa.com/viewProduct/?productNumber=113848

I read in Michael's book, I believe (I may be wrong) that the originals in Niedner's shop were made from steel pipe - the pattern was drawn onto pipe, and cut out, then bent and shaped. That gave you the nice convex surface.

Sunny Hill also makes a nice Niedner:
http://www.midwayusa.com/viewProduct/?productNumber=619353

And there's the Dakota model:
http://www.midwayusa.com/viewProduct/default.aspx?productNumber=974721

But a steel butt plate, like dating a super model, is over rated. They rust, they get scratched up, and they slide across the floor and let the rifle clatter to the ground. I think a nice red rubber Silvers pad is gorgeous, and practical.

Hi Ryan:

Thanks for the information!

Yes, steel butt plates will allow a gun to go sliding across a floor at what seems like warp speed.

Back in the early 60's I stocked a Winchester M-70 with a thin red rubber recoil pad and I thought that it looked very spiffy. I had always used a black pad and this was a pleasant change.

I would like to find a thin red pad to go on this 06. The Silver pads seem to only come in thick sizes

I have not used a pad grinding jij yet but always sanded the pad down with it attached to the unfinished stock. It had to be correct that way! lol

I can't get my mind to accept a modern pad on a classic style rifle. However, I have reached the age where shooting an 06 is not fun! My next "deer rifle" is going to be a .257 Roberts. A late friend of mine swore by his .250-3000 as a great "dear rifle" so the Roberts should also be a good one.

Thanks again,

Franchi

PhysDoc, Track of the Wolf carries them.
http://www.trackofthewolf.com/Categories...m=BP-SHOT-C-2-I

Franchi, take a look at some of Pachmayer's English style Decelerators. Different colors and thicknesses. A thin red one might look nice and ease the blow a little. Also, look over the Track of the Wolf website. Thirty some pages of buttplates; most for muzzleloaders but a couple might work. A smooth 1885 Winchester comes to mind.
http://www.trackofthewolf.com/Categories...=BP-WIN-85-SH-I

The BEST steel buttplate is the McFarland available from Brownells. I prefer the 'shotgun' style for rifles. It is difficult to find someone to checker them.

You might try rounding the edges of the clunky Win plate and adding more curvature if wanted. I too like the Win plate except for the square edges, and there's plenty of room for rounding. Also you might consider heel-&-toe plates or a skeleton plate instead. Several Guild members offer high-quality plates but they are pricey.

A suggestion for checkering is to ask someone who does it on handguns; one of my smith friends has used my electric checkering tool for many years on his Colt Government builds.

I use a Galco velcro add-on pad during the off-season when in shirtsleeves, it solves the slip-&-slide-on-hard-surface problems nicely.
Regards, Joe

Glenn Fewless, I believe, makes a solid version of his skeleton buttplate. However, I don't know how to get information other than calling Glenn. I think I'll pass on the $247.00 Dakota.

Here ya go - multiple red rubber pads.

http://www.csmcspecials.com/category_s/18.htm

Yeah...same here.

I added the link to the smooth 1885 buttplate.
http://www.trackofthewolf.com/Categories...=BP-WIN-85-SH-I

Here you go: Fewless shotgun, Fewless Skeleton, M-70 cast repro from Treebone, McFarland shotgun "English", McFarland Skeleton 'Rifle (pointy toe).

IMO: Niener at 4 7/8' or even 5" are to short for a 14+ LOP.

McFarland English checkered by Larry Peters

How much will you take for the Peters checkered plate? I will find something to put it on. How much does Glenn charge for his buttplates?

Glenn's plates are top notch and are my first choice in either solid or skeleton form if they fit the particular project.

Just put one of his solid plates on a fancy Beretta shotgun job. Really happy with it.

I'm sure Glenn will chime in with current pricing.

Dan

Wanda you kidding? That's on a $45,000 rifle on its way to Spain!
I posted those photos as a favor....

I will send you a nice recoil pad for the $45,000 rifle. That is quite a piece of work.

I've known Glenn for a number of years now and his metalwork has always been absolutely impeccable. Repeat, ABSOLUTELY IMPECCABLE!

And, just as importantly in my mind, he walks the walk. National BPCR shooting champion using one of his own rifles; how many smiths (of any era) can/could say that?
Admiringly, Joe

Steven,
Thanks for the pictorial. I love Larry's checkering.

The Mcfarland plates listed in the new #64 Brownell's catalog are listed as solid or skeleton with the option for English style which the catalog states has the spur on the heel. There is no mention of one style being shotgun and one being rifle. I like the shape of the one you have listed as the "rifle skeleton" and would like to buy one in a solid form if I can figure out which one that really is. It looks to be about 5&1/4" by 1&1/2", which is just what I'm looking for. Maybe a call to tech support on Monday.
Steve

If I understand: the solid non-English looks just like the skeleton shown (with pointier toe I don't like).
I simply prefer the fuller lower end, both for recoil and the appearance it give the stock shape.