I’ve been rust blueing parts up to the size of an action but I am not set up to do barrels. Many times I’ve wanted to touch-up rust blue and wondering if I make a small steam pot with a hose and nozzle if I can heat the area enough to turn it black. Has anyone tried this or know of someone who has?

Michael:

It seems I read about one of the big gun companies using steam instead of boiling. Can't remember where though, unless in was Angier.

Your idea of touch up bluing might just work, but I would suggest using a mild solution and no humidity box. This would help the intact bluing to resist the effects of the solution.

Give it a go and see what happens.

Glenn

I have on occassion just poured boiling water on a rusted item, including shotgun barrels, to convert brown to black. No reason it shouldn't work on a rifle, you could even pre-heat the barrel. I have a rifle to do and I intend to just pour boiling water on it. Give it a go, whats to loose, use a piece of scrap barrel. I think that's what you are asking, not about the rusting itself. --- John Can.

Thanks for the feedback, I also got about the same advice on the shotgun forum. Seems I only need a new tea kettle and I'll give it a try. Many times I would have liked to retouch a small place on a big part, looks like I can now.

I use a piece of schedule 40 PVC just big enough to hold the barrel,(one end of the PVC capped) and then do as John does. Pour boiling water over the barrel in the PVC tube until full. Then dump out the water and barrel, and it works well to set the blung.
I use smaller containers for other parts and pour boiling water over them also, rather than dropping them into boiling water.

Vall, I have two different sized pots that I can set on my burner that I use for parts and have used them with good results. I want to be able to touch up a small area without removing the barrel from the receiver, Hench my steam question.

Let us know how it works Mike. In my work I repair small steam generators that are used to clean jewelry. I have one in the shop now that the owner decided wasn't worth paying to fix. I may have a go at it if the parts are available. It has a foot switch that releases a jet of steam on a small area and has a good capacity, should last for almost an hour before needing a refill.

[img]http://www.ottofrei.com/store/product_image.php?imageid=1437[/img]

Every time I have introduced steam to rust bluing I've ruined the job because of condensation on the metal, hense I've avoided any steam for many years. I'll look forward to hearing of your experiments.

Michael, did you ever try this? How did you make out?

Thanks,
John

I have had good results using this method to touch up a small area where I have had to do some work. I would not use it for anything but a touch up though.

I have done it once for touching up the crown of a relined Ballard that had gone to plumb brown. It was a good way to control the process and blend the finish to match the original patina.

Michael,
If you want to do barrels, you don't need much. The internet stories about needs for stainless tanks and all are really just that - stories.

I do all my barrels in a 40" section of rain gutter. Two caps screwed on each end, sealed with silicone and a campstove or two is all it takes.

Local water (rural water system, i.e., city water) works okay usually. But a few gallons of RO water is cheap.

I am not the greatest craftsman by any stretch but one thing I do feel I do well is rust bluing barrels - so I think anyone that his half as handy as you are, can do it with ease.

As a matter of fact, I have one to do this week. My .22 low wall has the Jim Klusken's most excellent matting carved on its top flat now and it will be reblued in a few days.

Brent

I wonder if warming up the surrounding steel would prevent the condensation Steve spoke of?

I have a Mauser mod. 66S with .30-06 and .243 barrels that is in almost new condition other than the fact that the receiver bluing has turned a bit purple. I understand this is due to high nickel content in the steel. Anyone know if this is reversible without stripping and rebluing?

I may have to get setup and do my barrels. There are many folks that can do the work but a lot of shipping and insurance involved to get the job done.

We have a place near by that makes distilled water and I use that for for the rust bluing I do, nothing longer than an action.

I may have misunderstood the original post. I thought you were wanting to try using stream to convert the rust on a small repaired area when you did not want to do the complete part. Is there any way to rust blue a small area and get it to blend with the old finish when you do not want to alter the original finish on the balance of the gun.

John

Michael

You can use steam, and I have, but as Steven pointed out it has issues.

I've been using a black iron bluing tank for years, the type Brownells sells. So far it's lasted 8+ years.

Rust bluing is easy to touch up, as you can rust blue over many finishes..old rust blue, caustic blue etc. But, one issue you will find when doing rust bluing is the underlying polish.. Something cause that spot to get worn, minor rusting, holster/scabbard/hand wear, bump, scratch etc. It’s quite difficult to get that spot to match exactly; even when rust blued, because the difference between the damaged area and the original polish lines.

Generally you need to polish that area out, and feather the polish lines into the original polish lines. I do this quite often on barrels that have been rebored...Polishing off the old caliber marks, then restamp with the new marks...then a touch-up polish & rust blue.


V/R

Mike

John,

I have blued over screw hole repairs before and I just degrease everything as if to reblue the whole project, then apply the acid only to the repair area. When you boil it won't affect the other areas at all - only where the new rust is. It works great and if the old blue has some wear to it, you just stop before you get to completely black.

Bryndon

Thanks for the info, very helpful.

Bryndon, The 514 is coming along good, I think. On the 5th cycle right now. Still a light gray color on most parts. The softer stuff like the trigger guard are pretty close. I am afraid I might have left a few parts rust to long and developed a little pitting. I have been putting them in the dungeon to rust. It is very damp, but cool. Might be to damp. Otherwise, it is looking good.

I will say this. These guys that advertise rust bluing a entire rifle for $300-$500 are working damn cheap.

John

You did not misunderstand anything, I still plan to build or buy something for making a small and safe hot steam wand. So many projects and only 24 hours in a day ;-).

Mike check at Walmart, they have some steam pots that are very reasonable. The one I have has a hose arrangement that I use for steaming stock dents.

Mr. Petrov,

What rusting agent are you using? I moved to Alaska two years ago and had to get rid of my Brownells Classic Rust Blue solution (couldn't pack up liquids).

Haven't found anyone who will ship it up here. Did you make your own? I found Angier's book in the Barnes and Noble book rack and I'm considering trying to make my own - if I can find the ingredients locally.

Good luck with your project!

Won’t try and answer for M.P. , but when I lived in AK (pre 9-11) I used to make my own Aqua regia. I would use Reagent Grade Nitric and Hydrochloric acids, with some steel wool dissolved in it. Works quite well.

There was a chemical supply house in Anchorage that carried it in small batches. Back then, finding chemicals seemed easier in AK than in the lower 48, many of these chemical supply houses support/supply the gold mining industry.


V/R

Mike

I sent you an email, please call me!