I restored a Model 1912 16 gauge not long ago. I like the gun a lot; only problem is the ejection of SOME hulls. Ejection port is slightly shorter on the model1912s compared to the later model 12s. To correct that issue: would the only alteration needed be the extension of the ejection port of the Model 1912--or would there need to be other modifications?(I think the bolts are the same in both models, but not sure about that.)Thanks! Gil

No, the port could be opened but I use Remington Game Load hulls or 2 1/2" hulls, problem solved.

The 2 9/16 original hull is shorter than the 2 3/4 current hull and will catch on the port.
This is a diagonal measurement from the left side of the rim to the right side of the tip of the fired hull.

The Rem hull will work as it is shorter.

I have so many 16 gauge guns that I can be selective on ammo and gun.

Mike

p.s. To answer your question, only the port needs to be lengthened.

In the “for what it’s worth column”…

The first model 1912s were the twenty gauge version, and in the 8 or 10 different first few years 20 gauge guns we have tried, 2 3/4” ammunition runs just fine.

Every 16 gauge I have played with of the same vintage would reliably hang up with 2 3/4” ammunition. I’ve seen later 16 gauge guns, clearly marked for 2 3/4” ammunition, do the same thing.

Best,
Ted

The simplest is to get the ejection port lengthened at its front end. That's easily done on a milling machine by any capable machinist. The resulting fresh mill cut can be touched up with cold blue solution and will be hardly noticeable.

Back in the day when Mdl-12's were the thing, it was a common known gunsmithing operation to open/lengthen the ejection port to accommodate 2 3/4" shells. This is easily done on a mill & depending on how picky you are the freshly cut metal at the front of the port can be cold blued for a close enough match without the need for a re-blue of the receiver.

As mentioned above the easiest & cheapest route is to just use shorter cased shells in it & have fun with it.

I inherited 2 of those 1912s, (a 12 and a 16) that look like they haven't had much use since those times. I looked up the serials and I think they were about 1915. I got some short ammo for the 16 but I never messed with the 12 as it has a drastically castoff stock that would serve for shooting with the other eye. Thanks for the tip on the Remington game loads.

Gil:

Early M12 16s are quite a treat, as you probably already know. I also re-did a basket-case version a few years ago (a circa 1926 example) and discovered that somebody had already opened up the ejection port to shoot the longer shells. The tip-off for me was that the shape of the opening was no-longer exactly square (like the one on my 1913 M12 in 20). It has evidently been used like that for some time with no issues. Everytime I pick this gun up I am amazed by the weight and the handling. If I wasn't so-enamored by my doubles, this would make a spectacular bird gun. The original 28-inch Full choke tube had to be trimmed back because of a crack at the muzzle (somebody tried steel in it?). It's now 26 1/2-inches with about 10 points of choke.







Not a show piece, but mighty practical. I added the later Winchester pad for the extra LOP, I think I've got $200 in it. I use it mostly as a loner, but I shoot it lights out (& so does everybody else).

If you reload it is easiest to just shorten the shells. If you don't shoot it enough just buy short shells.

Gil, Actually, to set-up a M-12 for the longer shells, you really need to do three things; lengthen the chamber using the back of the chamber ring as the guide for total length, open ip the ejection port( I used a carbide bit on a Dremel), and take the shell lifter out and cut the reinforcing web on the top back to accomodate the longer length loaded cartridges. It should the cycle properly with the longer cartridges. Regards, Sandlapper

THANK you so much for the thoughtful explanation of the process. I am still thinking about sending it out to have that done but may just deal with ammunition that is compatible. What would that cost to have it done by someone who has actually done it successfully? Thanks again. Gil

Gil, I would guess $150-200 if they knew what had to be done. Gunter Pfrommer would be a likely prospect for that job if you explained what had to be done. I did the process on a circa 1913 20 gauge nickel steel gun with 2 1/2" chamber and it worked well. Strange thing about the M-12 is that even the 3" heavy duck model has an ejection port that is not even 2 3/4" long ,as I recall. You can only open it to the edge of the chamber ring maximum, but it works. Regards, Marcus

What I don't know about M 12s could fill volumes, as I've never been a pumpgun shooter. However, I can offer that very few 2 3/4", advertised length, shells are the same length. We discussed this on here some years ago. I cannot remember which available loads were the shortest but there was a significant difference in brands and loads. If you decide not to get the gun modified to handle longer shells it might be worth doing some research to try and find that thread. You just might find a commercial load that will work well as is.

The 16 GA M-12s seem to be a law unto themselves.

OTOH, I have a 1914 Model 12 -12 GA that is original with a sold rib and checked stock and forend.
It is a born turkey-duck gun that has slain many from VA to AL.
It is not ready for retirement at 110 yr and counting. Digests everything smartly, but 3 in shells...
originally from near Chesapeake Bay

All 12 gauge Model 12s were made with 2 3/4" chambers. Smaller gauge (16, 20) were short chambered. Simmons used to do the 2 3/4" chamber work and may still do it. Might want to talk to them about it.
1916XE- If your stock has not been altered, pull the butt plate. You may find TOURN. stamped into the wood. That will indicate that you have a Tournament Special. From your description of your gun it sounds like that is what you have. Is yours a straight stocked gun?