I have refurbished a 16ga elector field grade flues and replacing the stock was part of the project.

I have the gun fully assembled with all but one of the screws in. Currently the stock is tight in all the places that need be but the last screw hole I need to drill and screw to be placed is the main top strap screw.

My concern is that if I do this wrong it may pull the frame away from the wood inletting versus pulling it into the wood inletting.

Am I over thinking this or are there things I need to consider?

This is the last step to finishing this project

The weak spot in the Flues design is the screw of which you speak. You can turn a bushing in lathe to keep you centered in the top strap hole when you drill the pilot for the wood screw. It is always tricky putting in a wood screw and getting it time up properly. I usually make a new wood screw to avoid that issue.

You are not over thinking things, take your time and plan a bit and it will pay off.

I'm not familiar with this particular screw so this may be out of "left field". In general, such screws usually go through the stock and screw into the trigger plate and were often tapered, as well. In addition to the bushing suggested by SKB, it is often helpful to align a "center"(fitting the hole in the trigger plate) with the twist drill in the chuck. Having the intended hole so "located" at both ends usually helps the process. The tapered screws were usually "burned in" for the purpose of making a precise fit between the screw and hole, to keep the stock tight against the action. I wouldn't be surprised if instead of "burning in" these screws, some replacement stocks are installed by "glassing in" release agent coated screws instead. As usual some may find fault with this, and it wouldn't hurt my feelings.
Mike

The Flues top tang screw is an odd one.
It's a short stubby wood screw and simply screws into the wood under the top tang. The wood is not very thick there due to the action design.
There is no action screw up front that goes completely thru from top to bottom trigger plate to hold things together.
The rear tang screw does, but that doesn't lend much support to the action and head of the stock .
The rear tang screw is pretty small in dia as well and can often be found w/stripped threads.

So the Flues top tang screw causes problems, mainly it gets loose and the action rocks upward on recoil. The action is usually a loose fit against the wood.
The top section of the stock 'ears' are often cracked or broken and reglued as a result on many Flues shotguns.
A crack at the top of the grip right behind the tang is also frequent.

You can't simply put a long top tang screw down thru the stock and action to screw into the trigger plate as there are locking bolt mechanics in the way.

I have overcome the problem by using a machine screw in place of the wood screw.
On the inside of the stock inlet, the underside of the wood where the wood screw enters is easy to get at. The wood is not all that thick there but making a small steel plate of 1/16" steel and D&T it for the machine screw works to hold the assembly together much better than the wood screw.
I epoxy the plate into place in a shallow inlet in the wood to hold it in place for assembly.
The machine screw (a #8 works IIRC),,maybe a 10) & using a fine thread, there is plenty of holding power. The screw head is shaped to fit the countersink in the top tang and all looks fine and dandy
when completed.

I install the screw and plate with a tiny bit of 'draw' to it to pull the action back into the wood upon assembly. That is the only thing that actually keeps the two componenets tight.
It doesn't take much,,a 1/64" is plenty. Move the screw hole in the direction you want to pull the metal along with it.

It's a weakness in the Flues. Glass bedding along with this has kept them is shooting shape for me but I always told people to use soft recoiling loads or the design was likely to
show those weaknesses again under heavy recoil and use.