The extractor and the rod separated right where the rod meets the extractor. Can this be soldered back on and the excess solder filed away or does it need to be welded and the excess filed away or were the two pieces joined in a different manner.

The gun in question is a JP Claborough Bros hammered side lever with Damascus barrels. Cosmetically it is mediocre at best with an average piece of wood, not inlet very well, replacing the factory stock. Mechanically it seems to be on face and locks up tightly.

For me it will be nothing more then a shooter since I lack the skills, tools or money to do a full resoration, so if someone is interested in the gun, it would be for sale.

I would not trust this joint to be soldered and hold up. Maybe brazed.

Welding it would be the best type of repair.

Is it actually one piece? Quite a lot were prefabricated ,the rod being let through the head riveted over and brazed.When all cleaned up is is virtually impossible to tell if done correctly .

Thanks

Possible, but no way to tell either way. I lack the skills and tools to fabricate a new rod and would not want to spend the money to have it done, to me the gun isn't worth putting any significant money into it. I may try brazing it or getting a friend to weld it.

If the rod is a common size you could you could drill, tap, and soft solder or Loctite the threads. Otherwise a well fitted butt joint and silver soldering the old parts together should work OK.

Getting it lined up correctly is very difficult . If it dosen't it wont fit.

A good point, I'm still considering my options right now, I won't do it myself unless I am fairly confident I can do it right

had this happen on a low grade hammer gun and ended up making a new rod and threading it into the extractor. - picture the kind of gun you might lay a hedge with.

On an extractor gun, I'd simply make a new rod.
Drill through the extractor itself with a slightly smaller dia drill. Turn or file a section of one end of the new rod to fit that hole and leave a shoulder for the extractor to butt up against.
The shoulder doesn't need to be much at all,,just enough to stop the extractor.
On the face of the extractor, very slightly countersink the hole you drilled. Cut the rod to length so you have just enough so you can lightly rivet/peen the rod to the extractor.


Now use loctite 'red' adhesive on the rod & extractor hole,,assemble and lightly rivit them together.
Face off any riviting excess mat'l from the face of the extractor, then place the assembly in a drill press holding the rod in the chuck.
Press the assembly down onto the drill press table making sure the extractor itself is sitting flat on the table.
Lock it into position there and let it cure.

It should be as close to 'square' as the assembly method will allow.
Take it out and try it in the bbl set to see if it slides in and out freely. Sometimes a few file strokes is necessary to adjust things. Also make sure no excess Loctite has dried on the back of the rod/extractor to keep it from completely seating.

Then cut to length plus any slots/grooves needed in the rod using the original as the pattern.

I used to do them with soft solder instead of loctite and it worked just as well. You just need to tin the parts, then rivit together and remove any excess material from the front face as above.
The soldering is then done with the piece in the drill chuck. As soon as the solder flows, lower it down onto the table and let it cool.
Locktite has been easier and I've never had one come apart.

I would not trust the assembly method for an Ejector gun though.
Either silver (hard) solder or braze for those.
I've seen more than a few oldies with original assemblies put together with silversolder or braze that have come apart, but nothing lasts forever..100yrs or so is pretty good service.