I am going to buy a Beretta A400 Upland 28ga with 3" chamber to use as my duck gun until my shoulder heals from rotator cuff surgery (if it ever gets back to normal). These guns all have the Xtra Wood finish, which is "real" wood, but enhanced with lasers and who knows what else. It looks good, but the finish is matte with very open pores, so I'd like to add something to the wood to make it a little easier to keep clean after days in the blind. Anyone here have experience working with the Xtra Wood? I'd like to rub something on or in without any sanding, because I don't know how deep the factory faux finsih is. Suggestions welcomed. Thanks.

My first thoughts were if it ant broke dont fix it, then dont take the lid off it is full of worms and leave well alone. Then what would I do? I came to two practical ways that are plausible. First and simplest apply Carnuba wax polish using many coats. The other would be to use a melamine sealer using a traditional French polishing rubber to apply a coat extremely thinly, hopefully eventually filling the pores. This method could be totally reversible if you uses a shellac based grain filler and polish using Alcohol to remove them if it does not look good enough. Though my first thoughts are I feel still the best.

Good luck what ever you decide to do

Ernie.

Unless they have changed the whole process that is not a correct description. I remember reading a couple of detailed articles when they were released years ago. Must have been 25 years or more. Beretta at that time described the system as an inner core of plain stable beechwood or something. Over this was placed a thick printed plastic "sock" for want of a better word. This was shrink wrapped and bonded to the wood. I examined several and they had the finished look you mentioned. I also saw several people show up at the gun club proudly showing the amazing wood on their new budget priced Beretta. All were eventually taken aside by someone who explained their gun to them. None were pleased.


I haven't looked at one or even heard about them in years, but unless the have totally changed the process I doubt there is anything you can really do with them. You mentioned lasers and I seem to remember that the design was lasered printed onto the stock.

I would do some more research before planning anything.

Beretta used to have two different processes to enhance the woodgrain.

One was called X-tra-grain which is what the OP is describing with the laser enhancements.

The other was called X-tra-wood which some kind of hardwood with the film overlay which makes it look like exhibition grade walnut. I don't know what they are doing nowadays, but that is what I found 10-15 years ago.

If you only want moisture/grime control any good paste wax will do. Not going to gain any ground improving the unimprovable.

Chief

The original post mentioned ExtraWood, so that's what I was basing the response on. I had never heard of the ExtraGrain.

They all kind of reminded me of the plastic stocked single shot shotguns of the 50's and 60's.

Yeah. Amazing what those old Remington Nylon 66 rifles sell for now.

When I looked at the local showroom guns a few weeks ago, I did not see any markings indicating XtraWood vs XtraGrain. So I called Beretta USA customer service and tech support. Of course they had no idea which treatment is on those guns. Then I called Joel Etchen and they told me it is XtraGrain (laser burned and dye enhanced), with an oil finish. I'll probably try rubbing in some oil and then waxing over that. The open pores on the factory finish are going to be mud magnets if I don't do anything. Thanks for the replies.

I saw one Saturday morning with a scope for $500.00. It was pretty rough. I have one in like new condition- black with chrome. I've had it since they came out.

No idea about the autos and XtraGrain, but all the XtraWood O/U's I have ever seen had a different Grip cap that identified them.

It would be interesting to know exactly what that oil finish actually is, and then find something that would be compatible to use as a sealer and filler for the large pores. As damascus notes, common shellac might do it, but I wonder if using enough to fill the pores would shrink over time. Of course, a shellac topcoat could easily be removed with alcohol.

I have often thought about spraying two part Automotive Urethane Clear Coat as a gun stock finish. I need to prep an old stock to have ready to shoot with a couple coats of clear the next time I am painting a vehicle using base/clear. Carefully masking off any checkering with painters tape would be important. I think a few coats would easily fill most pores, and it would be easy to wet sand and polish to a nice smooth surface without cutting through... assuming it was compatible with the substrate. Of course, you would probably be stuck with the low VOC Clear Coat in Kalifornia, and I don't hear rave reviews about it.

Maybe find a Body Shop in Arizona that would hose it down with the good stuff...

I looked at three A400s, no grip caps.


True, but I have some old cans of the good stuff that I have been hoarding. Not a fan of poly finishes on gun stocks, but might add a dash of spar varnish to my oil mix when I get to it.

I put three or four coats on my wife's A400 12g to protect the faux grain finish. The gun is about five years old. I used Pro Custom Oil which has Tung Oil. It is a wipe on finish. That was about three years ago. It worked well and looks good. It stood the test of time. No duck hunting though. It is used for sporting clays and has lots of use.

Builder, thanks.