In the middle of a small gun project here (a good mid-winter project). A hard-used M12 in 16 that was inherited by a family member after years of neglect and apparently... careless use. A circa 1927 gun that still has the nickel steel moniker (& accordingly, the 2 5/8 16-gauge chamber) that I first saw several years ago (8 now?) hanging out in the back of a closet. I mentioned then that it was well-worth cleaning up and how parts were readily available. Fast forward to now, it's still in need of a deep cleaning (still the old story of dust mixed with lubricants sludging things up) and a more-careful examination of things reveals a 28-inch, still full choke barrel with a significant crack (at the 9 o'clock position). A 1/2-inch piece of the toe of the stock has also been gone so-long the break was smoothing out and rounding-off at the edges from continued use, the wood all dry and pale as the almost non-existent finish now only hints at what it once was. The work I suggested all those years ago appears to have been at-least started at some time in the intervening years, as the magazine tube is now secured and the little spring under the take-down pin has been replaced. It actually pumps now as well. It may well cost me my little 1913 25-inch barreled M12 20-bore (that was tendered as a filler gun), as I do seem to have a soft spot for these early M12 16s (that little 20 is too-darn petite to fit me well anyway). Built on the smaller 20-frame, these early 16s are intriguing to me for a number of reasons, build quality and then weight and balance being the biggest part of all that.

Addendum: An associate from my former gunshop days is a wizard with these old American hunting artifacts, and he has already fitted an original take-off red Winchester pad (not a repro!) that gains about 3/4 of an inch of LOP for me, carefully reshaping the stock to fit (and blending -in the damaged toe section in the process). He has also competently cut the damaged barrel back to about 26 1/2 inches and re-set the bead (eliminating the damaged section and leaving me with a tight IC choke). I'm done sanding the last of the original finish off-of the stock and have started back with the 2nd coat of a spar urethane finish. I'm presently torn about re-bluing things or just leaving it as-is. I'm also considering a Williams "Big-Head" safety to help me remember how to efficiently use a right-hand safety (as a south-paw). Not exactly sure who I'm doing this project for just yet. After a trip to the range I'll probably have a better idea. Restoration was never the plan here, just making it useful again for a start, with perhaps a nod to making it pleasant to look at as well, going foreword.

Pictures please

If you meant 26 1/2inches instead of 16 1/2, that will be a really nice gun.

Carl46: Fixed that little typo, thanks. It's 26 1/2 now. Pictures to follow.

I Had a short chambered Mod 12 with 26", 3/4 choked barrel years ago in good shooting order,,,,it was one of the hardest hitters that I`ve ever owned !!! Great to carry too!

Before...



During...



Can't see the red yet (still taped up for the last coat).

I’d leave the bluing as it is. It will never be a safe [censored - come on man!] and deserves to show all those hard earned wear areas. When I see a pristine looking gun I often think what a shame it never got used. But truth is 20 years ago I would have restored to like new if possible. Now I think that’s overkill and have learned just because you can does not mean you should.

Looks like you're losing a canoe paddle and gaining a classic shotgun. Nice trade!

Some here may disagree as it's not a double, but completely fair to call an early M12 a "classic" in my book. At a minimum It should now be more useful in the upland world. Useful is, of course, subjective considering the availability of 2 1/2-inch 16 gauge shells these days...but since I've got a few put back this old device should be a bit more utilitarian going forward.

[url=https://imgur.com/vuc21qE][/url

I've even got some of the proper red "hole plugs" for this pad, thanks to my former associate.

I really am torn on re-bluing it (just cold, nothing fancy), for at least the receiver. It's right on the edge of rusty where it's at now. But....if I make it too "pretty" it's real owner may want it back.

Lloyd,
She might want it back, regardless. But, I already know how she feels about Easter egg hunts for ammunition. That A5 20 gauge will check most of the boxes.

I’ve been down this exact same path, with the almost exact same gun, but, in 20 gauge. I knew it would never be a gun from the collectible column in anybodies world, and I draw filed the pits, and polished to perhaps 400, and sent it to be hot blued at Glen Rock blue, in Wyoming. Never regretted that move, nice to not worry about more rust on the gun, or, my hands. The end result of cold blueing will usually be wishing you had hot blued the old gun. Somebody is going to use the gun. Nobody will wish to see rust accumulating on the old surfaces, and that WILL happen at LOW county.

Do The Whole job. Put it back in use. It uses the same ammunition your regular gun does. Perfect gun to have in waiting for yourself. I really doubt anybody will argue with you about ownership after they realize the ammunition issue.

If that turns out to be the case, I have a Williams big button Lefty safety for that gun. Might as well do it up right.

Let me know.

Best,
Ted

I've fumble-fingered this post twice now and I'm pissed. Hate writing something and then losing it....

Ted: Thank you for the offer of the lefty Williams safety.





Not entirely beautiful but... fully functional now. I'll go get the front half of it back and shoot it this week. We'll see what comes next after that.

Skeettx: You tired of pictures yet?

All done for now.





6lbs9, 9 points of choke, new Williams safety in place.

How do you get the plugs to match?

Ozone or UV light will age rubber.

Shot the gun yesterday before this latest winter storm. I'm as rusty a pumper as the gun is, but it worked (& fit me) flawlessly. A bit more choke would be nice, but IC is as good as it's going to get now. There were a bunch of leftover cock pheasant running around the parking lot at the club (and we were all alone because of the impending storm). Sorely tempting with a slick ole' M12 in hand...



I've kept the original butt plate in case I have to relinquish control of this one (allowing it to fit folks of a smaller stature). Hoping that doesn't happen.

Still looks like crap

IC is perfect for that gun. You are a grouse hunter, eh? If you want more choke, just shoot #4’s at those pheasants and they won’t know what hit them.

Here Mr. Pheasant,
Bang
Thank you Mr. Pheasant
Great report, my she give you years of
great service
Mike

Used motor oil.
JR

Joe: Beauty is in the eye of the beholder.

Buzz: Mod would be a bit more useful overall, but IC will be just fine (way-more useful than full would've been).

Skeettx: Thankyou! Glad you enjoyed it.

Mr. Roberts: Great idea! I'm going to try some mineral spirits on it first (to try to lighten-up the back of the pad) but if that doesn't do the job, we've got lots of leaky old vehicles around here that can supply the dirty motor oil required.

Moreover, since I might now have two firearms needing short 16s, I've negotiated a deal for a lightly-used MEC reloader that's all set up for 16-gauge 2 1/2-inch shells. More of an insurance policy than an actual necessity at the moment, but you just never know...

I restored a mod 12 and a Mod 25. Made the 25 a 20" riot gun that is now the house gun. Both guns were rusty and missing parts. The 25 has a flat sided receiver so I had a machinist buddy surface grind the pits out on the flats. I sandblasted both with a fine sand necessary for parkerizing. I parkerized both with zinc phosphate from Brownells that comes out gray. Rubbing it down with cosmoline gives it that military green look. Both guns turned out really sharp looking and the finish is very durable. If yours is pitted you might consider that treatment over blue as no polishing is involved. Don't sandblast any surface that slides against other metal like inside the receiver. When you first reassemble the gun it has to be worked to wear in since that finish is not very smooth. At first it works hard but it smooths up nicely after a bit.

Well done. Put back to good working condition and I bet that gun sees a lot of use. Not every gun needs, or should have, a full restoration.

I like the Model 25-- Son-in-law has a 12 ga. 28" full choke barrel M25 his father bought new in the post-Korean War era-- still shoots like downtown-- but like the M12 Featherweight, never sold like either the std. M12 or even the M97 did-- I found an original Riot version- 20" plain barrel cyl. bore at a gun show about 10 years ago-90%- very little wear on the bolt (the metal you can see when the gun is closed-on the ejection port side of the bolt)-- and I bought it- for a home defense SHIF scenario-- I grew up shooting Model 12's, so it was the right choice. Never yet have had to use it, but for that matter, never have had to use the fire extinguishers I have ready, or flashlights-- Lord Baden Powell would approve-- "Be Prepared" is as valid as: "No rattle-No shine" is, IMO!!RWTF

Picked up that MEC loader for the 2 1/2-inch shells today. Walked in on my buddy's wife watching Ukraine getting run over by the Russians on TV. I've tried to ignore all the bad crap happening in the world for the last year, but there was no ignoring this. A friendly western democracy being run over by the commies and we're allowing it, after promising them we wouldn't let it happen when we took all their nukes for safekeeping. Made me sick to my stomach to watch it. I hope NATO is ready because Putin won't likely stop here. Belarus is all done now as well.