I have an early V grade and would like to remove the metal from the stock for a repair. I have searched the web to no avail regarding disassembly, no luck so far. Ted has graciously provided info on R grade previously; is it the same or different. Any help kindly appreciated.

I am always worried when this comes up....

First of all, I don’t know that you have an “early” V grade. Without having the gun in hand, a P grade does a remarkable job of aping a V, and there were at least three patents based on the large key action, and a few hybrid designs that are hard to place. Disassembly will be dramatically different between these guns.

Are you with me so far? An R is pretty much an R, a V, not so much. Also, I literally have to kick about 20 beat up R grade guns out of my way to go look at a V grade. V grades are much tougher to find, and, usually, not beat up. They are worth multiple times the money an average R grade gun is.

Don’t mess this up.

If you can remove the breechblock, without tools, we can make a generalization that it is probably the most recent patent V gun. If you don’t know how to get the breech off, it might be a good idea to stop, now. I mean no disrespect. But, the last guy in the world who wants to hear about a buggered up V grade, or, a P grade, or, a hybrid that someone thought was a V grade, is me.

Still game? This isn’t a clear photo, because I had to hold my V gun, the camera, and the pen all at the same time:



But, it shows where you will be working. The visible screw is one of several that have to come out to get the trigger guard off. The wedge that the pen is pointing to has a screw coming up into it from the bottom, which, will be apparent after the trigger guard is removed. Behind the wedge, is a regular head screw, or, a 10mm bolt (later guns) that will need to come out. The screw threads into the center of a metal rod, that has wood screw threads on the outside of it. Beware that the flat head screw is not seized into the metal rod-you don’t want to chew up the wood by having them turn out, together. It is the beginning of a very bad day when that happens. You can’t simply glue the metal rod into the stock if you destroy the wood threads, either. The last time it was put into the wood, it was slathered with lard as a lube, and retention agent. Getting a bacon stain out of clothes when you can see it is tough enough, not sure how you would get rancid animal fat out of a blind hole in wood, well enough to glue it.

The Bruchet built guns did away with this non sense by running a 10mm bolt from under the butt plate, and into bigger and better threads on the lower metal.

Good luck.

Best,
Ted

Haven't tried yet but this is the lever. I assume set vertical and pull up to remove the breech.

Yes. Give that a try. Quick question-does there appear to be a hinge at the very lower edge of the opening lever, when the action is closed? That nails it as a P model, and the breech comes off, but, requires tools. And expertise.
If you think it is a V model, proceed. Once it pops free of the axle, be careful sliding the breech off, it has sharp edges, and can cut you or marr the stock. You will have to manipulate the lever out of the slot after it is free, to slide the breech off.

You have good screw drivers, right?

Best,
Ted

No hinge at the rear of the opening lever, solid all the way back. Thanks, will give it a try tomorrow when I have more time. Have a good holiday.

Back at ya’. You have time on Thanksgiving Day?

That looks like a V20, from the engraving. Post some more photos when you have a chance.

Best,
Ted

Sorry for the delay Ted but holidays and work interference. So back to the subject. First picture is the wedge you pointed out except as you can see the screw goes through the wedge. Second picture is a screw in the table and third picture is the forend with angled screw into the wood maybe- I don't know. Below on the trigger guard 3 screws, the smallest at the base of the trigger guard. 2 additional pictures of the breech block. This is all of the visible screws.
So, would I proceed same as you outlined previously or otherwise. Also, at what point do you remove the through bolt. How about removing the forend wood. I assume this is a 2 piece stock. all info you provide is greatly appreciated.








Last image of guard screw coming through the rear tang. You can see the poor repair and an additional crack in the mortise.

Told you they were all different.


Anyway, the front wood is held on by the two screws you can see under the barrels. Again, there are metal nuts located in the wood, try to figure out if the screw is coming loose, and backing out, or, if the nut is spinning in the wood, as you turn the screw, which, is a bad thing. There are two metal pins mounted in the front wood, facing rearward, that locate in the bottom metal. After you get the screws out, wiggle it around a bit until it comes loose. Might take a bit. The mechanism with the button to release the barrels SHOULD be positively retained in the wood, but, try to pull it apart over a big, light colored towel to keep the parts close if it isn’t. The button itself, will probably just sit on an edge in the hole, and fall out when you tip the gun over.

You have to get the trigger guard off to get the stock off, so, start pulling screws out of the bottom, move to the top, remove any that are going down, and get it out of the way. After the screws are all out, it rotates off pretty much like any other trigger guard. There may be a screw going up into the wedge from under the guard, you will know more once the guard is out of the way. Yes, that screw in the wedge will need to come out. It would be the last screw I removed. The metal rod it threads into should stay in place in the butt stock. Do not remove that if you don’t have to. When you are done working on the gun, make sure it is tight in the wood (large, regular screwdriver) and reverse the order of assembly. I’m a little concerned by the crack I see, in the wood on the top. Hope it doesn’t meet up with the blind hole for that rod.

By the time you get to that regular screw in the wedge, stuff should be getting loose.

It isn’t difficult, just different. I have no doubt you can do it.

Best,
Ted

Thank you for your time to explain. Will have a go at it as time allows. I really want to see what the inletting looks like.

I really want to see a picture of the flats of the barrels.

Best,
Ted

2nd photo
[img]https://i.imgur.com/kptu6ykl.jpg1[/img]
Cannot get it to post this photo for some reason.

16 gauge V20. It is an older gun.

Very nice.

Best,
Ted