I think we need a new, more on-topic thread here. I'd much rather talk about doubles than Medicare, though I'm looking at retirement in weeks, so this I deal with but in other venues.

I am enjoying reading Rollin Oswald's book. I'm reading it somewhat out of order, which may be a mistake but keeps me entertained.

It is an excellent read and the guy is very clear about what he discusses, which is unusual for a shooting/gun book in my experience. However, one thing I have noticed is that nearly everything he says is geared towards competition shooting. I have not seen any mention about hunting, which is my personal interest in stock fit.

With that in mind, and for those of you that do both extensively, what are the differences, the correction factors for hunting guns that are often shot from cattywhumpus positions at flushed birds and with varying amounts of clothing, and so on? Do you shorten the LOP by 1/4" and all else is good, or have a lower comb, or just more drop at the heal, or ???

I thought it might be interesting to hear what good gun fit means for hunting guns relative to competitive shooting. Certainly, my competition rifles are different than my hunters, so it seems likely that is the case with shotguns too.

Stocks intended for the field usually have a thinner grip than clay target guns. They are usually shot from the low mount and tend to have a shorter length of pull and a lower heel than stocks meant for clay shooting from a mounted gun.

Anyone who thinks they know something about shotgun fit should read Oswald. I finished the book recently, but read it in order from front to back, as he suggests strongly that you do.......... the reason being that the author wants you to understand one thing before he tells you how another dimension affects it.

I've never seen so much useful shotgun fitting information in one place in my life. I think none exists. As I recently told a friend, I wish I could have read this book 40 years ago.

SRH

Have not read the book, but a 3/8" plywood pattern that simulates your gun is useful.
Nails for triggers, nails for rifle sights. Closed eye test for rifles.
Shotgun no sights, have pointed at a lot of Magpies and Flickers.
Don't worry about windage. Not a big deal to make another pattern.
Seems to work for most people.
Chuck

Not to be demeaning, but in the length of time it would take to make an accurate plywood pattern you can make temporary changes to your actual shotgun and shoot patterns to see what happens because of those changes. A plywood pattern cannot shoot a pattern, and where it looks like it is pointing is no indication of where the shot pattern will actually go. And, at 3/8" thick it would mislead you in indicating the thickness of comb needed to align your eye with the center of the rib. No shotgun stock is anywhere near that thin.

I've been down this road many times, and found that nothing replaces actually shooting your gun for POI.

I may be misunderstanding your point, Chuckster. If so, please fill in the blanks for me.
Thanks.

JMO, SRH

Stan, Do not disagree. The plywood pattern is just the first step, sort of a poor man's try gun.
Go through your steps after the stock is roughed out and refine as required.
Works best with experienced shooters who can mount the gun the same way twice. Some cannot.
Chuck

All my shotguns are flat shooting either they are or fit to shoot 50/50. Even my trap gun. In 1991 I had Jack Dockwiller cut me a stock for it in Redlands, CA. It was an interesting final fitting; he would work on the stock then I would go out and shoot a round and he would cut a little more. We did this a few times until it was right. All this time the ground was shaking on and off from the after shocks of the Sierra Madre earthquake that had hit the LA area. Dockwiller was a master of his craft.