I normally hunt ducks from the bank, but this year, I think I'll do a little boat hunting to get into some new areas. I have a small, 14" aluminum boat that I'll use, and I would like to put a ramp or step on it for my dog. Something that works over the transom would be fine. I don't have much use for the motor.
Gus is 68-70 lbs in fighting trim. He will be a few pounds heavier in early teal season. I hate dragging him over the gunwales. Gotta be an easier way.
Does anyone have an interesting design for a step or ramp that has worked well?
I think it comes down to if you can convince your dog to use it and how stable you think your boat is. If it's a low and tippy boat, the pup is going to make the feeling worse when he jumps off or paws around to climb on. The practical solutions I have seen involve the dog getting a partial foothold, something that can be moved and doesn't extend far from the boat, that lightens their weight and cuts down on the flayling. Then, the hunter hauls so they can control what's happening. Be glad Gus isn't 80 lbs. and maybe practice some before the season starts, mostly if it will be new for Gus.
Craigd- I agree on all counts. (First time?
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I plan to use the transom to minimize tippyness. I do not plan to use a motor.
Someone suggested an old tree stand platform as a starting place. I like that idea. I found some images of this with google.
Buddy made one which looked a lot like the one above, that was made out if expanded metal used on steps. Two steps and it was hinged to fold up and out of the way. He placed it on the side of the boat but over the transom would work just as well. He found it was important that the lower level was longer than the middle one so the dog could get his rear legs onto it.
I saw that MO-Marsh setup. Looks a bit ungainly, but effective.
Thanks for the tip about the bottom being longer. Makes sense.
I'm thinking of trying something where the ramp is parallel to the transom. Trial and error will figure into this quite a bit, I suspect.
Just get a fiberglass pi-rogue. It will be sunk anyhow when the pup jumps out so when he returns with the duck he can just swim back into it...Geo
If it's legal for your waters, and I suppose if the water is big enough, hook up a motor. A three or four mph putt putt will really expand the options if you allow just a half hour extra time. Just have a plan if it konks out or some weather rolls in.
One of those hang over the edge hook setups is good for a small boat. Even if it's just a two or three wrung ladder, as soon as the dog feels a paw on it, he will settle down and try to boost himself up. Have options, the back of the boat could end up tucked in some marsh grass. I do wish you great fun out in the field, if boat hunting is relatively new, keep it as easy and simple as possible, so it doesn't become a pain after newness wears off.
edit to add, Geo's way is also much easier for you to get in and out of, as long as you don't get water over the top of the waders.
You can always rig a way to set 2, 6-8 ft poles on both sides of the back of the boat. 2 loops and a pin, have many holes to adjust depth and shove them to the bottom to stabilize boat ( usually at Transom). Make them so you can connect the 2 and double as your push pole and deke retriever. I have seen boats with 2 in front and back, dog getting in the back won’t rock the boat. Much more stable shooting platform also. Just don’t forget they are there can go really bad!
Many years ago, I hunted with a buddy out of his small jon boat that had four verticle tube sections welded or maybe bracket bolted near each corner. It just had a nut tacked to it and an L bent bolt to snug down on the push poles. For two to shoot out of that little boat, the two poles with the duck beaks sticking up had to go on the side facing the decoys, and the other side of the boat was snugged into the cattails. Jogged my memory, of some pretty good central Wisconsin duck water and times.
I'll skip the "pi-rouge" and the motor (which I own). I like the quiet of my canoe, and I'm sure I'll much prefer the oars, though they may be problematic in tight channels, so poling may be required too. I can paddle for miles easily. In Iowa, that's 4 times around any marsh. We will do some test runs, but my plan is to go light, keep it simple.
September, the water will be warm...
It's a lot of fun turning a boat over duck hunting. I have the tee shirt....
Back in the day, I used to canoe to some hunting spots. Never hunted in the canoe, but I got there that way. Paddling upstream, through ice floes, it was all good. A bit of work, but I was young and needed the work. Now, I live in a land of miniature waterholes, thus not so big a deal. But going over would still suck. I did receive a dry bag today that I ordered for bear hunting in AK next year. I'll be testing it on ducks this year. But hopefully, it will only be for rain and snow, not submersion.
Wear a PFD. Tipping a canoe in waders can be fatal. When we hunted deep water out of a small Jon boat, I found some PFDs at Walmart that were perfect for ducking. All the flotation was around the chest, and the shoulder patches were clear for gun mounts.
Canoes are for transport, not hunting from in my case.
And yes I have PDFs. Mad River jackets. So we are "safe".
My Viszlas used to come out of the water almost like a seal and into my Ducker with little effort on my part. Always wanted to make a ramp, but never did. Now I'm stuck with a 102 lb (when dry!) Wirehaired Griffon. I can get him in, but have to have my stabilizer poles in the mud and pull hard on his collar. I row over deep water, but don't hunt where it is over my chest waders. Duckers are made with air tanks on each end; they have a flat ribbed bottom, so a large person can sit on the gunnel with legs extended inside and they won't flip over. I'll never hunt out of a canoe again.
This seems like a easy option. 114.00 on Ebay. Would work off the side or the rear of the boat.
KY Jon, I found that and a few similar. I am planning to make one similar, but set so it will run parallel to the transom instead of 90 degrees out from it. Regardless, it appears that 2 steps are required and better than a straight incline.
Found this on google:
Maybe try Schedule 80 PVC Pipe and mirror the bottom angle for a ramp