I recently bought two Ithica-SKB 200e 12 gauge guns at auction. They were in a lot with an AyA no2 that I wanted, and I bought the lot with the intention of selling the SKBs.

One of them is in very good shape except for a missing forend tip inlay. Right now, I am planning to re-do the inlay before listing the gun for sale.


The other gun is also mechanically sound, but it has a lot more stock scratches and dings, and there are two cracks through the head of the stock. These have been repaired but not very well from an aesthetic standpoint. If I were going to keep this gun, I would strip the stock, fix the crack repair, replace the plastic grip cap with a piece of ebony, replace the plastic butt cap with a pad, and refinish the stock with an oil finish.

My question: In your opinion, would I be better off just listing the gun as is or would it be worth my time to refurbish it?
To say it differently: if this were your gun, what would you do to it before selling it? And what do you think the gun is worth in this condition vs. in a refurbished condition (assuming done well)?

There is a lot of time in what you are suggesting doing - especially the second gun. You will never get more than pennies per hour for your time on that I think.

skb guns are good reliable shooters, but not yet collectible...

12 gauge guns are hard to sell these days...

so long as your time is not valuable for other purposes, suggest you fix erm up to be sound and nice looking...

then sell erm cheap an be done...figure $400 to $600 each, via gunbroker...

But- the miss-marked SKB's as "Ithicas" have to be a real rarity- I'll bet most of them are spelled "Ithaca"- just like on my NID 12 bore grade 2E- just sayin'--

Rarity does not necessarily equate to value. If you have plenty of time and really enjoy the work, go for it. I'd sell them as is as quick as I could and be done with it. YMMV

Good point.... How much extra are you willing to pay for this super-rare error gun?? Would it bother you if it looks like there is an 'a' hiding behind the freshly cut 'i'?

(on an unrelated note, the word is typically spelled 'mismarked').

Agree with Mark. The Ithaca SKB's are really good buys on the used market, especially if you're looking for a 12. You're not going to get much money for the one that's really messed up--both wood and metal. Too many nice ones out there.

Project guns are not money makers. Sell them and spend your time and efforts on a more worthy gun.

If you can do the repairs yourself I say go for it.

Correct- I spelled it with the extra, superfluous "s" just to see if anyone was really reading my replies with the keen eye of a sniper- Go to the head of the class! RWTF. What the hay- every once in a while I see the expensive London Purdey guns spelled "Purdy".. Purdy is the Cadillac of paintbrushes, but to my knowledge, they have yet to produce a fine side-by-side 12 bore game gun.

Unless you just like to do the work as a hobby (and there's nothing wrong with that), putting the work into the gun and expecting to Profit from your time spent is not a good bet IMO.

Even the thought that making it more presentable would make it sell faster might not be so true as there are a good number of originals in nice shape around yet at decent prices in 12ga.

Better to sell it as-is to someone else looking to do the same IMO.

They are good solid shotguns. Many are used for conversions to double rifles and that one would be a good start towards one for someone contemplating such a project.

You might find a stock blank on ebay cheap. I found a brand new buttstock for my model 100 for cheap and it was darn nice wood that fit with about 10 minutes of work. But was unfinished, so that took a bit more time.

Before you promote me to the head of the class, you should know that I also sent an email to SKB enquiring re the serial numbers on my 'Ithica' guns.

For those who are interested to know it, there are no serial number records on file at SKB for either Ithicas or Ithacas...

I hadn't even thought of that. The idea of inletting and finishing a stock is actually right up my alley. I could always stick the old wood back on there and sell as is if the project goes poorly.

I do enjoy the work a lot, and I originally thought that this would be a good candidate gun for me to hone some skills (as an aspiring amatuer gunsmith), especially since it is mechanically sound. I started having second thoughts which is why I started this thread.

It seems that the consensus is that from a purely financial standpoint, I should just sell the gun. But also that there's no harm in using it to learn some gunsmithing and stock making skills. If it turns out poorly, I frankly don't think it could be a lot worse than it is now.

On the other hand, there is a saying that there is no condition known to man that surgery can't make worse. I suspect the same might be true in gunsmithing...

my god, I love that! Especially as I am about to embark on some trigger work for my Cashmore.

......enjoy the work a lot, and I originally thought that this would be a good candidate gun for me to hone some skills (as an aspiring amatuer gunsmith), especially since it is mechanically sound. I started having second thoughts which is why I started this thread.

That's it right there. In your own words, to lear on this gun is perfect. IF you mess it up, you're really not out a lot of $$...if you do it right the satisfaction of learning the process will keep you warm. I'd say go for the repair and see how it comes out. Then the next auction you see with a cheap cracked stock AYA (or whatever) you'll know you can make the repair and be able to bid with confidence. Either way credit to you for learning...I could not make a repair like that and have respect for thosat do!

Thanks bls. I think that's just what I'll do. I'm going to start with the inlay tip of the forend then jump into the real project gun. I might even try rust bluing. As you said, it's not a terribly big risk if all I get is a couple of guns to learn on.

Jim, Rust bluing is a pretty straight forward and you can do an excellent job on your first try with patience and some elbow grease. good luck with it!

Says the nutty prOfessor

In the past I have done some Hot Salts Blacking, Express (Hot) rust blue & the traditional cold rust blue. While the cold rust process is stretched out over several days I found it to be the easiest & was my preferred method.

All the essential equipment needed is a container large enough to hold the barrels covered with water & enough heat to boil the water. You will of course have to card the formed rust after boiling. This is ideally done with a fine wire brush rotating at a relatively slow speed, but for limited use can be done with a hand brush or even steel wool.

This is obviously a slow motion project, but I ran into a question and thought I could give an update.

The option I chose was to use the guns as learning guns. Since I bought both Ithacas in a lot with a pristine condition AyA no.2 for about $2k at auction, I figure they were nearly free. What I decided to do was use the barrel from the poor condition gun to make a two-barrel set.

What I've done / learned so far on the "custom, deluxe two barrel ithaca 200e" project (with many thanks to members here who have been extremely helpful along the way):

- forend tip inlay. I used horn and had quite a time figuring out how to address the loss of wood at the edge of the inlay channel.

- grip cap shaping. Same horn as the tip. needs final touch up.

- oil finish. Using a home brew red oil & slacum, rottenstone, and lots of hand rubbing. Also had to address some gun oil saturation along the through bolt hole.

- barrel fitting. Smoked in to fit the bites to the bolt.

To be done:
- rust blue both sets of barrels.
- dress screw slots and blue heads.
- Fit a new recoil pad. probably leather covered.
- Restore a leather, two-barrel gun case from vL&A


Here's the question: I put the action back on the stock and noticed a couple of things. Initially the fit was poor. I swapped the through bolt from the other gun and was able to get the head to snug up. But.... with the head properly seated, I could see heretofore unseen hairline cracks in the head, in the typical skb/ithaca spot. When I finally get ready to list the gun, I will certainly disclose the cracks, but my question is whether these hairline cracks should be addressed structurally before selling (thus my posting in this same thread).



What do y'all think?

fix hit and sell wid no regrets...

Adding a pad and changing the grip cap will lower value IMHO.

For selling it, I would certainly include the original plastic grip cap and white spacer if someone wanted it. same for the plastic buttstock plate. I just personally find them to be unattractive and cheap looking.

Thought I would chime in on this subject since I have some experience with these guns. First, the stocks frequently crack around the scalloped frame inlets. I would always glass bed these stocks for that reason. But even when they are glass bedded they will crack if the stock nut is over tightened. There is a sweet spot of tightness. There should be a lock washer under the nut and a flat washer that sits on the wood. I would also use loctite, the weakest, I forget the color. If the stock gets loose and is shot the stock will likely crack. The wood they originally used was I believe to be Japanese walnut and isn't as strong as black walnut. Second, I'm sorry that you broke up a functioning gun to get the barrels. There have been some unfinished SKB barrels on ebay for some time now. I bought a set myself in 28" for a 200E. You could get these barrels and you would have to make ejectors for them there by furthering your training, not to mention the fitting and blueing. They are not that expensive either. Third, many of these guns where black chromed and that has to be removed before blueing. I don't know if it can be chemically removed without damaging the steel or not. I don't know how you could sand it off in the lettering and rib matting. Hope this info guides you in your project.

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The second gun would have needed restock (or major repair), tightening the action, and metal refinishing. So it was functional... but very tired. it wasn't a case of getting the barrels so much as salvaging parts. Would have learned a lot going the other direction as well, I guess


Maybe it was the wrong decision. It's hard saying, not knowing

My SKB 200E 20 gauge never cracked, and wasn't black chromed. Not saying others weren't. I'm sure they were. Mine served me well for several years, killing my first two western quail in AZ, Gambels, among other gamebirds. It now is in the custody of a dear friend who will care for it and use it.

My 12 ga cracked like 90% (estimated) of the others I’ve seen

I would leave as is. Mine was my fathers and that is the only reason I keep it.

Many if not most o/u SKB's had the hard chrome finish. I have yet to see a sxs that way. Not saying they didn't just the dozen or more I have been around, none were chrome outside. All bores were chromed.