Does anyone have a tutorial or instructions on the replacement of the yoke on a Fox vraded gun? Looks fairly easy, but I don want to overlook anything.
I know that the yoke screw is peened in order to prevent it from backing out. You have to Dremel away the peened metal in order to remove the screw.
Its been awhile but I'll try to answer your question as best I can. Btw Gr8day is correct you probably will need to grind the peened area of the yoke screw so that it can be removed. however if I remember correctly you will also have to remove the whole top lever assembly. to do that you will have to loosen the set screw on the retaining nut and remove the retaining nut (that requires a spanner tool which you will see). You also need to remove the combination top lever spring/safety rod screw. This spring is like a mine field for the uninitiated, note that there is a small ball shaped end on the screw that fits into a cup shaped end of a pin for better words. Here's where things get interesting, behind this pin is a strong coil spring. It is VERY helpful to remove the pressure on this spring (a third hand is helpful here). If you do not remove the pressure on this spring in all probability the pin and spring will shoot across your shop floor and you will spend the next 2 hours or days looking for them. BTW, if there is a way to remove the yoke without doing all of the above I would like to know it and I'm being sincere about this.
Doug
Thanks Doug. Good information. I ordered a yoke from Jason at Fox Parts. He warned me about the spring as well. One suggestion I received was to put a towel ofer everything to catch the flying parts when its popped loose, which sounds like a good idea. Nothing like spending a few days on gou hands and knees with a flashlight looking for stuff. Jason also suggested taking a 8 inch flatheah screwdriver, heating the laxt 3 inches, bending it at about a 45 degree angle, then after allowing to cool, cut a notch in the blade with a rat tail file. Use this to compress the spring for more control during removal and installation. Sound worth trying. I bet after replacing 3 or 4 it will be a lot easier. Thanks again. I will let you know how it comes out in a latter post.
My watchmaker has an interesting method of working with watches that have small screws, springs etc that fly around. He places the whole watch in a clear plastic zip lock bag. He then sticks the screw driver thru the plastic to disassemble. Screws, springs that take off are caught in the bag.
I have no clue if you can adapt something for your use, but I was impressed at his technique.
I use an awl with the sharp point removed and slightly rounded. The profile of the point very slender also.
I use this to push the follower/plunger down so I can unscrew the ball ended top lever screw.
The rounded point won't dig the plunger's cupped end up and the slender profile will let you get that point into the cupped tip just as the ball is beginning to be backed out.
Disassemble..I start to back the top lever screw out just a bit,,maybe 1/2 turn or so. Just enough to get the point of the awl onto the cupped end of the follower. Then push the follower and spring down with the awl and hold it there and continue to back the screw out.
Yes the spring is a strong one and make sure the action is secure in a bench vise to do this.
Either vertical or horizontal in a vise,,which ever gives you the better strength to push and hold that spring down.
Putting it back together,,same thing. Start the screw into position through the spindle. Then push the plunger down with the awl and hold it there.
Then crank the screw into place. The screw will push the awl out of the way as it turns into place (another reason for the rounded 'point' on the awl) and the plunger will take it's place under the ball end of the screw.
A touch of grease in the cupped end of the plunger helps the transition.
Eye protection always..
The split arm piece that engages the top lever spindle inside the action. The other end of the yoke engages the rotary bolt.
Push the top lever open, the yoke transfers the motion to the bolt and rotates it to unlock the bbls.
The screw that passes through the yoke and the spindle itself is the one which is usually peened over on the threaded end to prevent it from backing out,, and probably from tightening up anymore too.
It has to leave the arms of the yoke with some clearance to move about the spindle as it rotates the bolt.
Thanks guys. Everyone has some great suggec for the pesky tol lever spring. Never thought of placing something in a clear plastic bag to catch the flying parts. A gallon bag should hold a Fox action.