This is a fantastic bulletinboard with incredibly knowledible shotgun owners and I would like your input on a recent aqusition. Just recently purchased a used Spanish gun, Davidson's model 63b which some of you are familiar. Very well made A&D action with side clips, greener bolt, bushings. All screws timed even butt plate screws. The only thing frustrating is that it cocks too early making it difficult too load since the barrels rebound due to mainspring. I would like to carefully take a needle file and remove a few thousands of material on either the cocking levers or forend notches (preferred)to delay cocking a bit to allow the barrels to swing open more. I only have $300 in the gun but would like like to resolve problem. Anyone's thoughts who have done this?

I'm having an L C Smith corrected now, at Jim Kelley's shop, that has the same issue. I've never done it myself, but there was a thread that I started about it recently that might interest you. Sorry I can't help with the hands on part.

http://www.doublegunshop.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=498220&page=1

SRH

It will be much easier to work on the cocking levers than the notches in the fore end. The extractor cam often works as a barrel stop. Watch that and the hammer bent/sear inter action. The last thing you want is to go too far and have it not cock. Best of luck.
Steve

Steve, are either of these surfaces typically hardened? I will for sure take it slow and ckeck frequently. Due to geometry a few thousandths there will make a big difference.

The fore end iron is likely case hardened, not for sure though as some are just blued. The cocking levers should be moderately hard. Usually made of a type of tool steel, hardened and then tempered. They should be able to be stoned or filed but not dead soft.

Since I will be abe to have some control is it more desirable to have both hammers cocked at same time or have slight offset? I guess another way of asking is would a higher quality gun normally cock at same time. time?

They should cock at the same time.

I will post before and after pics once complete. Thanks for your help.

This design feature was to insure that shells do not fall out when the gun is carried open. I don't really understand the inconvenience of loading when the gun is in the position the poster mentions.

The inconvenience is when you have to manually hold open the barrels in order to load as opposed to let gravity due the work. I have heard this argument before about this was design intent to keep shells from falling out when carried open. I don't know about everyone else but when my gun is open the barrels are pointed down and the shells will not fall out due to the laws of gravity. I can't think of a scenario where the gun would be open and the barrels would be pointed in such an angle (when loaded) the shells would fall out.

Before you get too carried away, remove the forearm and remove the barrels. On the rear of the lug, you'll find a hook just kinda hanging there. Look closely at the hook and inside the frame to see where the thing goes. It'll be obvious but when assembling the gun it's easy to overlook and will create the problem you're having. Took me four years and three gunsmiths to figure that one out!

Be very careful. It is MUCH more annoying to have a gun that can be reloaded without getting cocked. Also, if the cocking starts too late, it can leave the strikers resting on the (fired) primers making the gun difficult to open.
I did have your problem corrected by a gunsmith on a (German) gun by having the cocking levers bent slightly. Removing metal is to be avoided wherever possible.

All of the doubles I currently own can be loaded without having to "Hold the Gun Open". The few I have had in the past which required this didn't stay around long, I can well live without that inconvenience. Any break open gun should of course have an efficient & effective barrel check/stop. I have seen a few which didn't but they were mostly older hammer guns. In opening the gum simply always push the barrels open to the stop, it will be cocked (If not, send it to the Smith).
I "Never Ever" carry a gun afield with the barrels open. Should one inadvertently slip & fall an open gun is much more liable to damage than one securely bolted shut.
I recall just such an event occurring to me once. I was navigating a wooded hillside when I stepped on a small rock covered by leaves. The rock rolled underfoot throwing me off balance & both me & my gum took a nasty tumble. The gun was "loaded & locked". We both survived the ordeal with only minor scrapes & scratches. The gun Did Not Jar Off, perhaps due to those top hung Large Hook Lefever sears. I would have been much more concerned of damage to the gun had it been open, perhaps even the fore-end lug may have been bent from the barrel leverage had it landed "Just Wrong".
Perhaps I look at things a bit different than many here, but keep in mind that about 98% of my shotgun use has come in the woods & fields with no more than that remaining 2% being fired at an inanimate object while on totally smooth footing. Should you encounter me afield with a gun in my hand, "EXPECT" it to be Loaded, Bolted Shut & the Safety On.
















5

I recommend that you send the gun to Cole Haugh, fsicole@yahoo.com. He is Jack Haugh's son, famed custom rifle builder.

He used to do Ugartechea warranty work for Aspen Outfitting, is very knowledgeable about Spanish guns and has fixed the problem you describe on a Zabala boxlock for me. He's quick and reasonably priced.

Bruce