That is a fine gun with intercepting sears I have a 16 gauge 310L and probably the finest gun I have ever owned. Bobby
That is a fine gun with intercepting sears I have a 16 gauge 310L and probably the finest gun I have ever owned. Bobby
Bobby, L is a Lyx? In 16 gauge? That must be fantastic gun... Heavy for gauge?
I started to post a question on whether there was an accessible guide the to the different husky shotgun models. The answer is yes:
http://www.skydevaaben.com/allhvamodels/info.xmlThanks for posting the pics!
Someone on this forum owns a 12ga Husky 310 LYX grade. I can't for the life of me remember who. He offered the gun to me at a reasonable price and I foolishly turned it down...Geo
Bill,
That is an excellent resource that not only covers the shotgun models, but also rifle and double rifle models as well. The thing with Husqvarna produced guns though, is that there are many exceptions to the rule...
Someone on this forum owns a 12ga Husky 310 LYX grade. I can't for the life of me remember who. He offered the gun to me at a reasonable price and I foolishly turned it down...Geo
Mike Covington?
SRH
Somebody must have wanted to change the pitch on that Husky in the photos. And I can't tell if that's a SSN or a telephone number scratched on the forend iron.
Yes I own a 12 ga 310 Lyx. Wonderful gun as Bobby posted.
George, the Lyx is still available.
My 16 310L with 29 inch and a fraction barrel length weighs 6 lbs and is a joy to carry and shoot. Straight grip stock with no cheek piece.yes it is a 310 Lyx. Bobby
That through bolt looks factory to me! Is that, perhaps, the way they built them?
That through bolt looks factory to me! Is that, perhaps, the way they built them?
I don't believe so, but it is very well done.
The through-bolt is not a detractor at all. How do you know it’s not original to the gun? And rust bluing is what you want. Do you mean hot blued?
I don't believe its original because I have never seen an original 310 with one. Also, its not the rust bluing that is a problem...it's the partial removing of the stamps on the barrels due to the polishing process that is a little disappointing. But I'm not really that concerned with that stuff on a gun that I'll be using and not just collecting. My point was that it's not perfect, but a nice double at the price point.
The through bolt is definitely not original.
Is the case coloring original? If not, who did it? It looks very nice.
I bought a gun from Mike and it was better than advertised. Thanks again bud!
Is the case coloring original? If not, who did it? It looks very nice.
As long as I know it is original unless it was redone in Sweden before being imported.
That has to be good old Bone Charcoal. Look at those colors.
Beautiful gun, Bud!!!
Any pics of the 310Ls? Sound like interesting guns!
Yes I would very much like to see the engraving patterns...
I have some photos of my 12 ga 310 Lyx but can't post due to Photobucket.
Anyone want to volunteer to post if I email them to you?
I'll post'em for you Mike...Geo
I PM'd you my email address.
Very kind of you George. Photos emailed to you.
Bobby, is the engraving on your 16ga LYX the same as above?...Geo
Swedish guns don't get a lot of press, but that is a beautiful gun in my humble opinion...
George yes,the very early ones had a rose and scroll pattern. Google Husky 310 Lyx and pictures of several are on there and there is article in Double Gun Journal about how much work and time went into building one.Bobby
Was the OP's husky a Simpson import? I frequently see them offered on Simpson...
Yes it was. The difficult task with Simpsons is getting one which:
1. Is in good condition
2. Is actually what they say it is and does not have any surprise problems
Yes it was. The difficult task with Simpsons is getting one which:
1. Is in good condition
2. Is actually what they say it is and does not have any surprise problems
The good news is that they'll let you return them if they aren't satisfactory. Simpsons is good people, in my experience.
Thanks for the pix of the Lyx. Gorgeous!
The checkering on the fore end looks unused
Anyone know of a location on the net with a pic of the model 50 Husqvarna?
It is described in the catalogs as having monobloc barrels that are threaded into the monobloc. The production of this model seems to have lasted only a few years, from 1927 to 1934.
It appears to be the top gun in this picture. It is the Nyare Modell 50 (I assume that means "new model")...
https://www.jaktojagare.se/upload/_Artic..._husqv_1767.jpg
Thank you!
A back action round body hammer gun and monobloc too! One of those in 20 gauge would do me fine!
I'm sure they are as rare as hen's teeth...
There aren't any round action 20 gauge hammer guns on the Simpson site. I know because I looked.
My Husqvarna SxS is stamped model 350 on the water table. It is a hammerless 12 gauge with 28" barrels (2-3/4"). Originally choked F&F, I had Mr. Hamlin open them to IC&M, which better suits my hunting. Action is case colored. The walnut stock is straight/english, with an A&D forend latch. It has sling swivels.
I used it today, to take two pheasants in Southern Illinois. I also sometime use it to shoot informal Sporting Clays.
I'm not sure when it was manufactured, but it remains tight and will long outlast me.
I'd post photos, but am unsure how to do so since photobucket changed.
I observed a few when the shipment hit these shores few years ago. One could buy A&D HVA in very good shape for less than $400 instantly making it the best quality knockabout gun for the dollar spent beating old standby like Sakaba 100. Those HVAs are easily equal to Ithaca NID and the 350 action was used for calibers like 9,3x74 meaning the action is very, very strong. Real good samples have risen in price because they were undervalued when they first arrived here.
I enjoy mine, I have a pair like this, this one is the worst one that I use waterfowl hunting out on the salt marsh. 12ga 2.5" chambers load 7/8 oz ITX 6's in 2.5" Eley or cut down Fiocchi hulls
I bought a third wreck for parts and #4 was suppose to be cut to 24" but when it arrived it was 20" but it has nice wood and the rest of the parts are like new. I kept it just beause it was really cheap when I bought it. The wreck was from Simpsons and was discribed as such and sold as a parts gun, really the only bad part is the barrel, heavily pitted inside and out.
Are there any Swedish members on the forum? I would love to hear their take on these homegrown doubles. As far as I have read, the 310s were the best that Husqvarna made. The much later made 1310 were a sort of homage to the original 310s but If I recall correctly, lacked the intercepting sears. I have a 1310 as well as this 310. My personal 1310 is sans engraving and the wood was beat, but the metal was in very nice shape so I had the bores opened to skt 1 and skt 2 and it will be put to use as a fowl-foul-weather gun.
I had a Husqvarna 310-A 12ga which was pretty worn when I bought it, as many of these imports are. I had Mike Orlen open the chokes and it became my go-to bird gun for several years. Never had a moments trouble with it until the flange on the forend iron that works the extractors broke off. I carried it to the gunshow and swapped it for a .38 pocket revolver...Geo
Anyone know of a location on the net with a pic of the model 50 Husqvarna?
It is described in the catalogs as having monobloc barrels that are threaded into the monobloc. The production of this model seems to have lasted only a few years, from 1927 to 1934.
I've had a couple mod. 50's. Same gun as the 51 except lacking the crossbolt, only in 12ga, and also with straight grip (51's only came with prince of whales grip to my knowledge). Here's a mod. 50 I had briefly last year before I sold it:
Here is a the gun farther away, along with my mod. 44 that I still own (which may be a one of a kind 14ga):
Are there any Swedish members on the forum? I would love to hear their take on these homegrown doubles. As far as I have read, the 310s were the best that Husqvarna made. The much later made 1310 were a sort of homage to the original 310s but If I recall correctly, lacked the intercepting sears. I have a 1310 as well as this 310. My personal 1310 is sans engraving and the wood was beat, but the metal was in very nice shape so I had the bores opened to skt 1 and skt 2 and it will be put to use as a fowl-foul-weather gun.
I am of Swedish heritage (my grandfather was a logger from Sweden, and I have relatives there). From what I've seen online on some of the Swedish gun website, the really deluxe models don't seem to make their way over here much. Here are the Husky's I currently own (I've owned and sold a ton over the last five years or so):
A mod. 44 16 or 14ga (it has 14ga. bores, so I'm having custom made brass hulls made for it) This gun is a wonderful shooter, and the barnard damascus barrels are mesmerizing.
Custom mod. 100 16ga, that I've converted to straight grip, re-blued the barrels, and added grain from the previously canoe paddle plain stock, and re-checkered to a checkered butt. This 6lb gun is a fantastic chukar/hun gun, choked ic/xf
mod. 103C 12ga with custom checkering. Am going to re-blue the barrels this weekend.
Mod. 350 skeet. Very rare here, only one of its kind I've ever seen. In a nod to modernity on the skeet line, this is actually the only non-hammer gun I own.
My Husqy 51 (in the center of this pic) . . .
Wow it seems that the Washingtonians own all the hammer huskys!
Mark, I used to live in Lacey and I'm a big fan of your work by the way.
Wow it seems that the Washingtonians own all the hammer huskys!
Mark, I used to live in Lacey and I'm a big fan of your work by the way.
Thanks!
For gregdownunder:
For gregdownunder:
Wow.Beautiful!
I enjoy mine, I have a pair like this, this one is the worst one that I use waterfowl hunting out on the salt marsh. 12ga 2.5" chambers load 7/8 oz ITX 6's in 2.5" Eley or cut down Fiocchi hulls
I bought a third wreck for parts and #4 was suppose to be cut to 24" but when it arrived it was 20" but it has nice wood and the rest of the parts are like new. I kept it just beause it was really cheap when I bought it. The wreck was from Simpsons and was discribed as such and sold as a parts gun, really the only bad part is the barrel, heavily pitted inside and out.
I've had horrible luck with ITX 6's, but ITX 4's are just fantastic. Glad you found a load that works! I've thought about getting a mod. 20 underlever for use in the salt marsh. I had my nice 103C out on the salt flats recently, and my barrels started rusting in no time flat.
I've found the wiping them down with Johnson's paste wax heavy coat and don't buff it off works also CRC Marine HD Corrosion Inhibitor works well(spray it on the night before and let dry overnight)it leaves kind of a dry gummy residue but protects well, it is also great for trailer light plugs, the trolling motor and running light sockets.
As far as the sixes, I only use 7/8 oz in the 12ga so I tend to let them get in High House station 7 range. I'm retired and get to hunt a lot so I can let them come in or just watch them go bye no need to try and reach out for them. I also live walking distance to some great hunting here on the coast and have cart set up to walk my decoys to the spot, just sit on the bank on the in coming tide no blind.
Over the past 60 yrs of duck hunting I've acquired enough different boats that I can get into spots a lot of other people won't bother with.
I've found the wiping them down with Johnson's paste wax heavy coat and don't buff it off works also CRC Marine HD Corrosion Inhibitor works well(spray it on the night before and let dry overnight)it leaves kind of a dry gummy residue but protects well, it is also great for trailer light plugs, the trolling motor and running light sockets.
As far as the sixes, I only use 7/8 oz in the 12ga so I tend to let them get in High House station 7 range. I'm retired and get to hunt a lot so I can let them come in or just watch them go bye no need to try and reach out for them. I also live walking distance to some great hunting here on the coast and have cart set up to walk my decoys to the spot, just sit on the bank on the in coming tide no blind.
Over the past 60 yrs of duck hunting I've acquired enough different boats that I can get into spots a lot of other people won't bother with.
Thanks for the tip! I hadn't considered paste wax. I'm moving back to Vancouver, WA in a few months and will be hunting the coast a lot next year. If you would like some company once in a while, let me know. I'm buying an aquapod this week so I can lay down in the flats all grassed up. Interesting how the mallards like to go back towards the fir trees in the flats in the little ponds that are created at high tide...
Beeswax chips dissolved in a small amount of turpentine can make a very thick paste that dries fairly hard when applied to the metal and allowed to dry. One can apply a thicker coat of that mixture than one can with Johnsons. However, its best to avoid contact with stock finishes. I've never hunted saltwater, but I've applied this as a long lasting metal finish on rainy day guns that doesn't seem to wipe off after being run through heavy grouse thickets.
Among the hammerless Husqvarna sxS shotguns, there are many model numbers.
Does anyone have a list/post of the differences between models 310, 350, 610, 1310, etc.
Other than Skydevaaben, I have yet to read much writing on the subject...
http://www.skydevaaben.com/allhvamodels/info.xml
https://imgur.com/nuNk7rIMy Husqvarna 12 gauge Model 350 did the job last week on Illinois pheasants. Originally choked Full and Fuller, I had Buck Hamlin open them to IC and MOD.
Anyone know what years the Model 350 was made?
Jerry Goldstein
From 1952 until 1960
Great wood on your 350!
Unfortunately, this web site seems to have expired. I found it very useful.
Mark,
It has been that way for a while. If you google it and open the "cached" version from the results you can still view the information.
