Some of my old SxS's have brown oxidation in their engraving cuts. The receivers are fairly bright, but the rust is below the surface so it doesn't get worn off when carrying and shooting the gun. Does any one have a good method of cleaning the engraving cuts without scratching or damaging the receiver? I've tried wiping with with Hoppes bore cleaner and some of the rust does come off, but the rest of it looks darker than before. Has anyone tried a mild soltion of muriatic acid (hydrochloric acid) which would then be neutralized with a baking soda solution? I read that will remove black iron oxide (bluing). Why wouldn't it remove brown iron oxide? Any other ways to do this? Thank you for ideas.

Joe,

Dentists use plastic scalers when cleaning implants. They do so to prevent damage to the titanium implant. I suggest that you sharpen a stiff plastic rod and use it to chase the engraving.

Phil

Joe,
If your receiver is NOT case colored, or has lost its original case coloring then a soft BRONZE bore brush and Hoppe's No. 9 may do the trick. The Bronze is softer than the best blued surface and will remove rust and oxidation without scratching or removing original rust bluing...but it is possible to put light scratches into case coloring if its been sealed with a varnish.
For your application, just wet the brush and work it in a light circular motion to clean out the engraving.

Roger

I would consider boiling it in water - that will stop the rusting action cold. Then some sort of soft brush to clean it out and oil from there. Follow with a good oil and you are done.

Anything like acids are going to far and will affect whatever other finish you might have on there. wowever. some folks use toilet bowl cleaner and the like. Basically acid treatments.

Brent

Along the lines of Phil's suggestion, how about a toothpick dipped in Hoppes or acetone? I would be worried about boiling water messing up the hardness of the frame.

I do not think that boiling water will change the hardness of metal. May change the color of the rust.
Casey

It takes about 300F to affect the hardest high carbon steel, so boilng water is safe. Boiling will convert red rust to black as in rust bluing, and will make it much easier to remove mechanically. In WWII, frontline military armorers commonly boiled rusty gun parts to convert the rust and make it easier to remove and also to restore the black color wanted.

OB

You gotta be kidding?

Rust blued receivers are boiled. As are rust blued barrels.

Brent

You gotta be kidding?

Rust blued receivers are boiled. As are rust blued barrels.

Brent

If my memory is not too bad, I think OB was a metallurgist or related pro. So, he's probably spot on with the 300F from a purely technical perspective, but I'll step out on a limb and say heating would unlikely be of any functional detriment on a cased frame until it got well above 400F and more likely above 500F.

One of the 'rust and blueing removers' should do the deed quickly but will remove any "patina" oxides as well.

I have a question for OB (if you're the metallurgist I'm thinking of). Since the outer layer of a case hardened steel is of high carbon and hardness, would embrittlement be a concern with the use of acids like it is with high strenth/hardness martensitic steels like 300M etc?

I would go with the Hoppe's #9 and use a ScotchBrite pad.

Pete

Navel Jelly - at your local hardware store. It will remoce ALL oxidation right down to the bare steel. Eat wood too if ya let it and skin.
But the metal is just way clean and no abrasive of any kind is required.
I don't remember but it might be phosphoric acid. Water will wash it away but you might want to give the instructions a glance JIC.

WtS

Navel Jelly works great, BUT!!! put any blued part in another building. NJ will find its way to the blued part and bingo, NO BLUE.... Randy

how about some OOOO steel(or even better brass) wool with oil and gently going over it?As long as you don't put to much pressure on it or go over it mulitble times the bluing should be ok.
Dave K

I used Kroll and WD 40 with 40 steel wool with very good results on a very high grade Parker
bill

A thought or two on Kroil.
This product was developed to remove corrosion on marine engine and boat parts. Several years ago some of us antique car guys found it more than useful on our old cars. It simply cannot be beat for what it was intended to do.
Unlike WD40, it will not dry to a lacquer like mess that is difficult to remove.
As far as I know, it must be ordered from the firm (Tennessee I think) and is not available OTC.
As far as I am concerned it is worth many times its cost.
USE SPARINGLY !!!!!! A soaked toothpick seems a good idea to me.Should work to remove the corrosion in the engraving and not harm the metal or surface of the piece.
Best,
John

I'll cast another vote for Kroil. And, as Mr Mann mentioned, a little bit goes a long way.

It is available OTC although I don't see it in too many shops. Brownell's carries it.

Regards,

Dan

I was wondering if I could find some "Navel Jelly" in mine? How do I identify it?
Should I stop showering for some weeks? :-)

JC(AL)

JayCee:
I was about to thank you for the Beretta number and read this thread first.
SSSSHHHHHHHAAAAAAAAMMMMMMMEEEEEEEEE!!!!!!!!!!
Still chuckling !!!!
Best,
John

Sorry, couldn't help myself, I am a stickler for spelling, :-)

JC(AL)

Old Joe,

I would not recommend muriatic acid, it's action is pretty severe. Somewhat counter intuitively in lower concentrations it produces a "rougher" finish than does the concentrate, giving a pitted effect.

Regards
Eug

Agree with OB and CH on boiling water not being hot enough to have any effect on steel heat treat.

Two additional thoughts. The dark color in the engraving is likely "dirt." So, soap/solvent cleaning with a mechanical scrub may be effective. Clean engraving on a "coin" finished receiver doesn't show up well. New guns with fine line engraving and coin/grey finish are sometimes "inked" to make the engraving show. Take care how thoroughly you clean the engraving. I doubt that there is any damaging corrosion going on in the bottoms of the engraving cuts.

Order your Kroil direct from the manufacturer. A gallon will cost you $32 and you get a free can of the spray. A half pint. from Brownells is $12.

Great company and good products. I bought a gallon about 8 years ago and still have half.

http://www.kanolabs.com/

Get yourself some solid copper wire, like that used for household wiring [Romex] of 14~18 gauge. Strip the insulation off of one strand or just use the ground wire, cut it at a long angle with a pair of diagonal cutters. Use the fresh cut end as your 'pick' or tool along with some Kleen Bore Formulae 3 to remove the rust. If it gets worn too smooth or rounded, just nip a small increment from its end to 'resharpen'. The Formulae 3 will penetrate wonderfully and loosen the rust as well as prevent future rusting and the copper 'tool' will not scratch a thing nor harm the engraving. It will be tedious work, but you should only need do it once. Do not be afraid to bear down or be agressive with the wire's end, you cannot hurt anything, metal wise. You could put a gouge in the wood though if you slip so pay attention. Use a piece of wire long enough to be comfortable held in your hand and bend the last 1/2 " 90 degrees or down for the working end if it makes it easier for you to use it that way.

For the best thing to re-oil or wipe down engraved surfaces, get a piece of real lamb's wool leather that has been clipped close. There is simply nothing more effective to insure you get a coat of oil on and into the engraving. A small piece will last you a lifetime. I have one that is roughly 4"x6" that has been in use for 40+ years and if anything it is better now than when first put in service.

Hope something here helps you out.

Yhe dark color in the engraving is most likely the remains of the original color case job. Once the color is worn off or mechanically removed, there is still remenants of the color left in the cuts. FWIW, Ken

If you want to remove rust and the part is heavily rusted try "Evaporust". It removes rust better than anything I have ever seen. It is positively amazing. It also removes anything akin to rust like bluing.
If you have a heavily rusted receiver or part you think is beyond help give it a try. I used it on an LC Smith that had been on a garage shelf for 30 years. I tried it instead of scrapping it. My brother now has the gun back in use after a reblue. It looks almost as good as it did when he got it in 1956.
It is made in Minnesota I think. Midway sells it for about $30 per gallon. Biodegradable and non toxic.

Thank you everyone for your replies. I have many ideas now and need to experiment to see how it works out.