what is the best way to remove heavy rust from guns a and rifles? i am guessing that the electrolysis or whatever it is called, is the best but i don't know.i have a friend in baton rouge, la who wants to get some badly rusted guns cleaned up so he can figure out exactly what he has.

anyone have suggestions?

thanks!

skunk out

a large ultra sonic would be ideal, short of that a sharpened piece of brass, steel wool, oil and elbow grease.

I've never used electrolysis on guns or gun parts, but, it is the cat's meow for cast iron automotive or tractor parts. I used Red Devil lye in the water, and a piece of stainless steel plate as the electrode thingy, because the rust that is drawn off the to be cleaned part migrates toward the stainless, and then falls to the bottom of the tank. The metal parts come out clean, with a raw cast iron color.
I used a 50 gallon "pickle barrel" made of plastic, and an old 12 volt battery charger. It works like a charm. You can google for more information. You shouldn't do it in an enclosed area, as it generates some hydrogen gas, but, it works excellent.

Best,
Ted

It would be helpful if you or your friend could post some pictures.
Jim

thanks for the replies and please keep them coming!

these guns were in a fire and stored in wet conditions, even by south louisiana standards. they are toast, but my friend did want to see what they started out as, plus there is the one in a billion chance that he gets lucky and something is usable.

i am looking to use something other than acids if possible. i told him i would ask around so i am throwing it out there

skunk out

Evaporust.

Google will give you lots of information.

Used on all the metal parts of this shotgun.

http://www.gunbroker.com/Auction/ViewItem.aspx?Item=436794853

I use electrolysis also, but this is easier.

If the rust is heavy. Turco, removes the rust and will not remove the base Metal. It is best used by professionals in a descaling operation. While it is very effective you will then have to dispose of the Turco properly

For really heavy rust, it is more economical to physically remove some of the rust with wire brush or wire wheel first so as not to deplete your rust remover or waste electricity if using electrolysis.

I've used Evaporust and electrolysis with good results. Another effective product that will not eat the base metal is Rust Beeter which is made from dried sugar beets. It is mixed with water and the rusted parts are left in the slurry for as many days as necessary. You can also buy molasses from a feed store and dilute it with water at a 6:1 or 8:1 ratio for a slow but cheap and effective rust remover. This does work better in warmer weather. It can take a week or two, but it's a lot cheaper than the $20 a gallon Evaporust.

Boric acid is also effective and inexpensive. You can buy it as roach powder at the store. Mix six heaping tablespoons per gallon of hot water. Make sure any oil is removed before the soak. I soak for at least 30 mins. Then, rinse under hot water while scrubbing with a new green ScotchBrite pad. It's very effective. If the rust is heavy, I'd wire wheel it first. It's what I use for rust and bluing removal.

Regards
Ken

Though I have never used electrolyses for removing rust from guns or their associated parts I have used it a lot when restoring other items. The electrolyte I use is what we Brits call Washing Soda you folks will know it as Sodium Carbonate at a rate of a Brit half cup to the gallon of water yes! The brit cup and gallon are bigger but the amounts will even themselves out if you stick to the US Versions and it is not at all critical. I do prefer to use rain water but there is the choice of demineralised water the reason I mention the water is that some household tap waters hold a lot of dissolved minerals and they can cause problems (my Brit to American Dictionary says Brit ‘Tap’ is American ‘Fawcet or Faucet. Help which is the correct spelling pleas). One personal observation I found was the rust removal was always more complete on the side of the part you are treating facing the anode (+ve). So I use an anode plate that is circular stainless steel and the object I wish to de-rust is positioned in the centre also I use stainless steel wire as the connection to the part I want to de-rust (-ve). To provide the power I use a 12 volt automobile battery charger supplying between 2 and 4 amps. Also I found that the process moves along much faster if you clean down to brightish metal at the place where you attach the connection to the article you wish to de-rust.

Damascus, it is "Faucet".

Thank you canvasback its a mutual language,though with so many variations.

damascus

Indeed you are correct. I just learned from you that cup or gallon is not equivalent on both sides of the Atlantic. New to me. Thank you for the insight.

There is a lot of information on the internet regarding electrolysis. Important to emphasize damascus' point to use "washing soda" not "baking soda"

Also, the process will remove all oxides including blueing.

Baking soda will work nearly as well as washing soda. It is a little bit slower, but lots easier to find. All the soda, or lye, does is ionizes the water so that it will conduct the current.

why not just use salt then

Common salt (sodium chloride) when dissolved in water and electrolysed will (in dilute solutions) gradually become more concentrated as the oxygen and hydrogen forming the water molecules are released in gaseous form. In concentrated solutions gaseous chlorine will be given off ... a very unpleasant material dangerous to eyes, skin, an in particular, lungs. Anyone who's breathed in a good dose of chlorine (as I have) is somewhat reluctant to repeat the experience.

Just a side remark, I've never used the electrolytic method at home but did so extensively in an industrial setting. Any springs stand a fair chance of being embrittled to the point of failure; I once saw this happen when I subjected a wound alarm clock to cathodic cleaning; you can hear a clock spring let go about a foot below solution level.

Not a lot of people know that.

I second boric acid, used warm at about 30g/l. Gets into all the corners and can penetrate all sorts of goo.

Eug