In a previous thread, we got into the discussion of Alkanet stains and oils. Thanks to damascus and others, I've been able to make my own with impressive results. For both the stain and the oil, I bought a pound of Alkanet powder for around $20.

For the stain, I mixed about four ounces of the powder into 16 oz. of a mineral spirit neutral stain base I have, let it sit for a week, (shaking at least once per day) then strained it through a coffee filter. The filtering process took a while, it drips very slowly. Excellent results when I tested it on some Black Walnut.

The recipe I used for the oil was what damascus described as "Andy's Oil". I bought food-grade raw linseed oil (flax oil), as well as food-grade walnut oil (unroasted) from the health food section of a local supermarket. The linseed oil is very clear, I figure (since its edible) it's got to be as clear as the more expensive artist grade type. I used 16 oz of a 50/50 mix of the oils, approx 4 oz. of the alkanet powder, and followed the same week-long "shake and sit" process followed by the filtering. Results were also excellent.

On the test walnut pieces the results were similar, but not exact. You can tell a slight difference between the spirit stain and the oil, with the oil being slightly deeper red and richer, just as damascus had predicted. The stain looks almost red free, almost a natural walnut color, with the oil having a more noticeable, albeit pleasingly slight, red color..I'll never buy stain again.
Ken

I guess if you are trying to replicate some previous color, this might be ok. But, different types of walnut will give different results.
I have done quite a bit of woodworking, and some of the best stains are powders mixed with water. These stains are in the wood, not on it, so on a gunstock being refinished with this type of water based stain, the outer finish is all that has to be applied. If you wanted it darker, than add more stain.
Another good stain is Watco, I usually apply it to sanded gun stocks and put it on and then use 400 grit wet/dry paper and sand it in. If put on heavy enough you will get a slurry which you then wipe off. The finish is very smooth.

I have also used Minwax Red Mahogany with good results, but again the type of walnut is key to how it is going to look.

I found mixing the Alkenet powdered root with a modified oil finish to be best for me. Because the color is in the finish and you cut back while applying more finish/color there is no thin spots which is what I always struggled with when using a separate finish and stain. So many methods out there, you just have to find what works for you.

The only time I tried to make a stain from alkanet root (given to me by Jack Rowe), it turned out too pinkish-red, like beet juice.

Water based stains have a serious drawback in that they raise the grain, which has to be sanded down, leaving light spots where the stain did not penetrate as deeply. I only use alcohol or mineral spirit based stains.

Minwax makes good oil/spirit-based stains, but you need to be careful of which one you use on a gunstock. Their Dark Walnut is much too black, and their Special Walnut too light. The color I have found that represents a true reddish-brown for walnut is their English Chestnut.
JR

I believe they have another called Gun Stock and is very nice also.

For about 10 years I've been using powdered alkanet root mixed with alcohol to create stain. I also have a batch mixed with Original Oil Finish I purchased from Track of the Wolf. I've been very pleased with both.

Steve

I keep it on the go. I buy alkanet root in rough cut form, rather than powder, and just put it in a jar and pour linseed oil over it and leave it forever.

The longer you leave it the redder it gets. I never use it until it has been steeping for at least 12-months.

I like the idea of using a stain mixed with stock finish to avoid thin spots.

I do exactly as Small Bore and am very pleased, it really looks good on 100 year old feather crotch black walnut. If you have a stock that is already a bit dark just use the stained oil to get the color right then go with the straight linseed oil to finish it out. You might need to let the stained oil cure for a while though before finishing with straight oil so you do not lift the tint and smear it into pink:)

You might also try pulling the bark chips out of the oil at varied intervals for different richness.

The suggestion that there are many ways to skin this particular cat is also spot-on:)

Best,
Mark

I use a reddish walnut dye powder, oil soluble that I got from woodworkers supply, mixed with Formby's Tung oil. Also tried Teak Oil mixed with the dye powder, like 1/2 teaspoon in half pint. Teak oil seems most like linseed, but the Formby's dries harder. I darken light spots with Pre-64 solvent based stain--expensive, but a little on a q-tip goes a long way. Still learning....but the Formby's/dye matched a Winchester Hiwall Scheutzen stock, that had water damage.

A question for those using the traditional method of alkenet root in linseed oil.

Do you recommend adding a dryer to the oil & how heavily do you oil the stock between applications?

The reason I'm asking is that I have heard that the color is better with oil than with the spirit based method but getting the stock to dry can be an issue.

I've used various commercial spirit based stains with fair to very good results but I've never been 100% satisfied & I would like to give alkenet root a try.

No, just raw linseed oil. You can put scores of coats on, it sinks in and deepens the colour, can take a couple of weeks to get to where you want to be. The weather proof finish is the rubbed oil, which does have driers.

I consider the 50/50 walnut/linseed mix to be better that straight linseed oil. Quality of the oil is important, The food grade oils are superior to the stuff from the hardware store. The linseed oil is raw, not "Boiled" (without drying agents). I've read that some folks gently preheat the wood with a heat gun or blow dryer. Coats are very light, only a few drops briskly rubbed into the stock with the heel of your hand, the friction heat helping the oil to penetrate. I'm following the traditional "Once an hour for a day, once a day for a month, once a month for a year" method. My shop's humidity is low, if it wasn't I'd consider a drying cabinet..
Ken

I consider the 50/50 walnut/linseed mix to be better that straight linseed oil. Quality of the oil is important, The food grade oils are superior to the stuff from the hardware store. The linseed oil is raw, not "Boiled" (without drying agents). I've read that some folks gently preheat the wood with a heat gun or blow dryer. Coats are very light, only a few drops briskly rubbed into the stock with the heel of your hand, the friction heat helping the oil to penetrate. I'm following the traditional "Once an hour for a day, once a day for a month, once a month for a year" method. My shop's humidity is low, if it wasn't I'd consider a drying cabinet. Once done, I use a high quality wax on the stock.
Ken

Mine are very dark, both the stain and the oil. When I hold the jars up to the light, you can't see light through them, it's like very dark ink..
Ken

Has anyone tried using it to color French Polish? And how well does it work for same?

Thanks, J.

Any particular reason why would walnut/linseed mix be better than straight linseed oil? Thanks.

With kind regards,
Jani

Small Bore,

Thank you. That is the insight I was looking for.

It appears to go on smoother and dry a little faster,with being less gummy. It also feels lighter when I apply it, but it may be my imagination. I also speculate that it is more "Natural" since its the same type of oil that the wood originally grew with, and it might help the wood not to deteriorate over time, mainly since its a nut (tree) vs. a grain oil. It also smells better. Lastly, I consider my info source (damascus) to be knowledgable and therefore valid.

Thanks for your explanation, Ken.

With kind regards,
Jani

Bumped for reference.

Ken61,

Thanks for the string. Much very useful information.


John

My cat does not like the reference to his skinning but there are many correct ways to stain a stock. Simply put whatever works for you works. I used most of the mentioned secret methods. So best advise is to try it on a price of scrap wood and play around with it. I even use two different types on the same stock sometimes. I has one stock that just refused to stain well until I tried several different things. I ended up with the result I wanted but sure took the long way to get there.

A bit off topic, perhaps, but what do you guys do about coloring the checkering to match the stained stock?

I work the stain in lightly with a soft bristle toothbrush. Light application, then a quick dabbing with a soft cotton rag to soak up excess stain. I repeat the process until I get to the color shade I want..