Don't have a schmatic. Is it just an access panel or does it provide a specific function? Such as a bearing surface for springs or other parts?

Good morning.

The answer is most definitely functional. See below link.

http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v316/Ansleyone/A%2520H%2520Fox%2520Gun%2520Co/Fox-KautzkySST1914insertflyerinside_zpsbba84ae5.jpg&imgrefurl=http://foxcollectors.com/My%2520Forum/phpBB3/viewtopic.php%3Ff%3D2%26t%3D4752&usg=__Np0tTo2HXXoQ-O_8Qm_pdncnJqE=&h=518&w=800&sz=75&hl=en&start=2&zoom=1&tbnid=bRdEd1rj-YqLCM:&tbnh=93&tbnw=143&ei=GjlhUs-qCtSp4APItICACQ&prev=/search%3Fq%3DKautzky%2Bfox%26um%3D1%26sa%3DN%26rls%3Dcom.microsoft:*%26rlz%3D1I7AURU_enUS498%26hl%3Den%26tbm%3Disch&um=1&itbs=1&sa=X&ved=0CC4QrQMwAQ

the floor plate on a Fox is also the trigger plate and supports a small spring that is part of the top lever operation.

Am considering looking at one with a "minor ding" in the floor plate. It would seem this could easily be straightened with removal.

A ding in my mind is not something that would need straightening. Furthermore, the floor plate is quite thick. So, what is it that you mean by ding and what portion would need straightening? Do you think that it needs disassembly for inspection of this ding to verify that it does not displace internal parts or affect function? I'd chalk it up to the cosmetic deficiency column and not worry about repairing.

Shoot straight,

Bird

The inside surface is flat straight accross. The only cut out areas are two very shallow scalloped out areas from just behind the plate screw hole to the rear edge. These are perhaps only .015" deep (just my guess) and give some clearance to the sears .

The plate is dome shaped on the outer surface of course.
It's perhaps .175"+ thick at the center and around .100"+ at the edges where it sits on a supporting ledge in the frame cut.

All this can vary, especially on a gun that's been refinished.
But generally speaking it takes quite a wack to inwardly dent the trigger plate.
In the wrong spot it could effect the sears. Maybe the hammers,,but that would one bad ass dent.

The frame at dead center and right in front of the trigger plate on the bottom is often dented inward.
The frame is very thin right there for about a 1/2" length alongth the trigger plate edge.
The dented frame comes often from the use of a hammer in the re-installation of the Fox guns hammer & mainsprings. A few hits and a few misses and that fragile spot on the frame dents inward easily. Plus the 'hammer the hammer' method won't get you anywhere in the installation process.


The trigger plate does a lot of stuff including pulling the frame assembly tight to the stock when the tang screws are tightened.
That slanted surface on the front of the boss that the triggers pivot on is what does that trick as it is forced against an opposing face in the butt stock.
Without it, you'd be depending on the tang screws to hold the frame tight to the wood,,,,like in an Ithaca Flues.

Thanks. I just wanted to know possible repercussions, dependent upon extent of "ding".

Note to Kutter: You were correct, frame dented ahead of floor plate, 2 distinct hammer hits.

I also suspect Kutter is right. Here's some information for future reference:
A few years ago I was having a hard time reinstalling the floor plate on my Fox. It just wouldn't go back in and I'm NOT of the "give it a whack with the hammer school". So I asked here for some advice.
What I was advised to do was to put the floor plate in the freezer over night and then give it a try. This worked like a charm.
Jim

You can try and lift the dents out from the bottom with the floor plate removed.

Leveraging the metal upwards using a suitable flat tool against other interior areas of the frame.
But, be aware that the frame was case hardened to begin with. The metal may crack in moving it back into place,,may be micro cracked already,,just the nature of the surface hardened stuff.

I'd suggest lightly annealing the dent with the tiny torch tip like an 0 or even 00. Just turn it blue to kill the hardness.
Case colors or lack of them can be easily touched up afterwards.

It's difficult to get it back the metal into place smoothly doing it this way if it's more than an edge dimple.

A better way is to replace the floor plate w/the screws tightened down.
Then place the frame bottom side down on a smooth steel surface w/a piece of thin cardboard between them to protect it,,a business card works well.

Now from the top of the frame through the bbl lug cut out you can access the dent and tap it down. You'll be doing so at a slight angle, so make up a punch to account for that. Brass works well. The hard smooth surface beneath it allows you to tap the frame dent out and nicely even with the undamaged floorplate.

All that said,,the dent usually doesn't bother anything but the looks.