I am refinishing a Purdey stock. What is the method to apply Slacum oil from the first to last coats? Is anything done to the stock between coats?

For the real answer contact crossed chisels in Maine.

LD: Try this thread. It's mainly a discussion of alkanet root for stain, but Dig talks about how to apply the slacum. Do searches if you want more.

http://www.doublegunshop.com/forums/ubbt...&PHPSESSID=

I will proffer, sparingly by means of a piece of cloth dampened with the oil, but will defer to C. Chisels.

I apply a very small amount and then "massage" the stock with my bare hands
until I feel it getting warm. Only when it is dry to the touch do I "massage" again.

Surely Master TC/DT will share THE way!

JC

Lil dab as JC says (to major faces of stock). Move it around with the heel of your hand onto the wrist and up to the stock head, some onto forend, don't reduce checkering pts. by too much contact there. Heat from rubbing helps cure; hair dryer will do the same (oh sacrilege! may not be the proper way in Londinium!) Caution: eye irritant, wash hands before whatever comes after, which, in my case apparently, is rubbing my eyes. I mix too high proportion of carnauba in mine so I will NEVER be PROPER.

jack

Slacum sucks.
JR

Maybe you could elaborate a bit? Why, in your opinion, does it suck?

cause it does JR, thats why Purdey uses it.

Seriously if it is applied properly and the time is taken with its application and not rushed you will get a perfect durable finish. The problem comes when people rush it, fvck it up and then make sweeping blind statements that its no good.

and yes I have heard and read all the previous posts and arguments into it, oil finishes in general and other alternatives.

JR Slacum sucks because Americans have no patience.

Sorry for the teenage retort on slacum, guys. There are just so many superior products out there today that provide a classic "piano" finish but are superior in wear and water resistance to slacum. Yes, it does require time and patience to apply properly, but that doesn't make it good. Hell, Tru-Oil is better than slacum. One product that comes from the Land of Purdey that I particularly like and is far better than slacum is CCL's Conditioning Oil. Beautiful stuff.

I've never been remotely close to Purdey, but I bet they use something better these days and call it slacum.
JR

John,
An oil finish is exactly that! An oil finish.
Tru-oil uses a plasticising agent as do many modern finishes.
Slacum is a Purdey tradename for a modified linseed oil finish developed by Harry Lawrence one of Purdey's employees.
CCL oil is a modified linseed oil as used in the Birmingham guntrade (W C Scott) for ages.
The Italian mass producers use varnishes, polyurethane sprayed on finishes but when they are commissioned for a 'best' oil finish, they lovingly apply linseed oil and most trade makers including H&H and Purdey use 'Trade Secrets' stock oil although I do know that many stockers still have their favourite brews.

Thanks Salopian, you are quite correct on all points. My problem with slacum is the wax component; I think it weakens the molecular chain somewhat and "softens" the end result, compared to these other product, which have no wax component, just linseed and modified polymers, that cure harder and are more durable. What say ye?
JR

John,
Spot on with your observations.
Originally beeswax was used, then carnuaba, and now the wax is left out completely.
The wax does (did) give a softer finish and added the satin like lustre in appearance, but I do know that many customers demanded a harder, impervious to knocks finish, something akin to varnish.
Note to all:- If you apply slacum a little but often you will build up a fabulous high gloss piano type finish.
The secret is applying a very small amount and spreading it out and rubbing it into the wood.An oil finish should be in the wood, not on it.

Sal,
Would it really be slacum without the wax component? I would also go a little further and say an oil finish should be in the wood AND on it also if you want some gloss, because you do have to have what is known as a "dry film thickness" on the wood to achieve that glossy result.
JR

I see that there is a Napier gun stock oil for sale and a video of applying it. Is this similar to Slacum oil? Does it do a good job? Is the video worth buying?

Salopian, are you saying that you are now using slacum
oil that is just linseed,turpentine,and a drier, without wax
of any kind?

Also known as the "color coat." Take the finish back to the wood and apply a very thin final coat.

I happened to be re-reading this post and thought that I
would try again. Can someone tell me what is in slacum if you
mix it without any wax of any kind?. I have tryed mixes with
nothing but traditional heat processed linseed, turpentine, and a little dryer. They do look good, but don't seem to have any pore filling ability at all. Salopian? Anyone?

More info on slacum oil:

http://www.doublegunshop.com/forums/ubbt...e=0&fpart=1

JayCee, hand massage is needed if you use crushed cockleshell with oil. This is method for filling the pores on stocks

Friends:
Salopian is the most wise voice here on slacum. The formula has been changed a bit over the years by Purdey. They used to sell it in tins, but no longer. And even they use it because..." they've always used it."

One thing more: According to the Purdey finisher I know, final rub-in application of the stuff involves an undisclosed element of human spit. Seriously.

Holland's and Westley's simply use Rapid Oil. Expertly applied.

Best, Kensal

A few things I discovered over the years:

The final polish depends more on the degree of polishing of the wood BEFORE any oil etc is applied. If you take it to grit 400 it will be dull no matter what you use, if you polish to grit 1000 it will shine. The oil used is secondary to the final shine.

True oil may be excellent for wear. BUT, it robs walnut of its natural color, overlaying every piece of walnut with a nut brown hue which is not exactly pretty. Alkanet infused oils bring out a red hue which is just about right.

RI shooter, all the information is in these threads or the links.
The wood does need to be finished very well BEFORE applying the oil, I actually 'Bone' my wood as a last step before applying the oil finish.
If you need a filler, use the wet slurry sanding operation.
Final coat will be PURE oil and spit 'bulled up' as we call it.

Was it Dig H. or yourself, Pete, who has a recipe which adds plaster as a filler?

jack

Hello Jack,

It was Dig. Here is what he shared:
I stand corrected: it was Pete/Salopian and not Dig.
Sorry.

"Slacum Oil

Here you go boys,
Purdey's London Finishing Oil
For Darkening, Filling & Polishing
All measures are in English (UK)
-1/2 pint of Raw Linseed Oil
-2 ozs of Plaster of Paris (Dental Quality)
-1/2 fluid oz of Butter of antimony
-1/2 Gill Spirits of Wine(2.5 fl. oz. of ethyl alcohol.
What it does I have no idea.)
-2 teaspoons of Vinegar
-1 teaspoon of Venice Turps.
You can leave out the Antimony if you don't want to darken the wood.
Leave out the Plaster if you don't need to fill the pores.
That's what is in Slacum Oil."

JC

When I was commander of an Army Honor Guard, burying young men coming back from Viet Nam, I used a lot of spit on my Corcoran Cap Toe Jump Boots to work in the polish

Salopian,

When you say you "Bone" the wood you mean with a piece of bone as we do in leather working etc?

Presumably the vinegar in Slacum is to raise the acidity and speed up the oxidization, ie drying, of the oil? Any chemists around to help on that?

Drying of linseed or any other drying oil is subject to the old principle of volume proportion to surface area. The more surface area exposed the faster the drying, hence the advice to use the thinnest coats possible. I have never had problems with drying when using super thin coats spread by hand. They usuall dry overnight.

Jaycee,
That recipe is one of mine given to me by a Purdey stocker.
Shotgunlover,
Yes you are correct on all your assumptions.

Primitive recipe enough, BLO plus J.dryer will do the same I guess. There is no 'secret' ingredients or you just don't know about them - 'trade secrets'. But I know from very old books, there are must be bee wax, fruit tree resin and rosin and ethyl alcohol needs for rosin

Oops, sorry Pete, I thought it had been posted by Dig.

I had this one as shared by you:


"Boiled linseed oil – 16 oz
Spirits of turpentine – 2 oz
Carnauba wax – 200 gr
Venice turpentine - 2 teaspoonfuls
Mix together and heat until it simmers. Simmer for ten minutes then allow to cool.
Be careful it does not catch fire -!!!!"
This was posted by Smallbore/Dig.

JC

Slackum may "suck" or otherwise be inferior to other products but I like it. I discovered the formula for it and alkanet oil on this forum and will be forever grateful to all you gents who posted formulas and info on it.

I have completely refinished several stocks, and freshened up others with who knows what original finish and they have never looked better.

I think it's a great finish.

Jaycee,
Indeed yes, that is one of Dig's recipes.
Geno, I well remember your valuable contributions to the original thread, and yes for sure rosin and the sap from fruit trees is and was a valuable addition.
As we all know turpentine in its various guises is used, but I once got a paint technician to give this subject some time and thought. He came up with a concoction that utilised Napthalene as the evaporative, it worked so fast it was like magic.
Many of the recipes use carnuaba wax for hardness of finish but the traditional ones use beeswax.
Also many formulae use Tung oil rather than Linseed, but beware as Tung oil can cause skin irritation on some people.

There is some logic to use carnauba wax as part of the mix. At very high temperatures outdoor stock impregnated with bee wax could become sticky.

Such sacrilege should not be tolerated...

I be leave this subject will never end.
Formula to remember 1:1:1. A drying oil, A resin of some type. A carrier fast or slow evaporation.
The Granddaddy of them all is the Brit Admiralty Spar Varnish formula from the days of sailing ships, comprising of Tung nut oil (this was swapped out in favor of Linseed oil because of cost), Copal Resin, Pure Turpentine.
Venice Turpentine is just boiled Larch tree sap, used by oil paint artists to improve the paint's body and spread ability. Good for history not so good for keeping the damp out.
A bit of self advertisement take a look at the F,A,Q, section Damascuses traditional oil stock finish for the history and the how to.

Years ago I made some slacum. I have just a small amount left..I can't find the recipe that I got off this website.
The recipe I used called for cobalt drier I still have all the ingredients I just need to know how much cobalt drier to use ?

jOe, it doesn't take but a few drops per oz. Not real critical, sort of a seat-of-the-pants thing, which you use often here.
JR

To answer your question about how to apply the slacum, this is how I was taught by Abe Chaber.
Color the wood. Shake the slacum up mixing it well
Apply the slacum using a thin cloth like a piece of old T-shirt.
You dont have to worry about runs, dust , fingerprints etc.
Cover the entire stock.
After about 3 or 4 hours the oil will become very tacky and scummy.DO NOT allow the slacum to completely dry throughout the entire process.Sprinkle on some rotten stone over the stock. Use a clean cloth dipped in linseed oil to vigorously rub out the scummy finish. The slcacum / rottenstone slurry will remove the scummy oil, at the same time this sticky goo will be driven into the pores of the wood and fill them. The slurry also polishes the wood surface. Wipe off any excess and repeat this process until all the pores are filled and the wood looks like it should. DO NOT allow the slacum to completely dry throughout the entire proces or you will have a hard time rubbing out the finish. Keep in mind that it will take 3 to 4 hrs to reach the tacky point so pace your coats accordingly.

So, Peter, is that Kreighwhore all sllllaaacum'd up?

just curious

Nobili recounts that Italian best gun makers use Tru-Oil

I saw a Boss and Co. YouTube in which the interviewee said Boss used Tru-oil because it was easier to touch up if scratched or damaged than LO.

Wonko,
No ! my Krieghoffs are Poly factory finish , a bugger to scrape off , and the Krieghoffs are not 'proper' guns that deserve TLC.
Being retired now I rarely do a stock finish or repair , but I must add that in my working career I do know that H&H, Purdey and many of the Italian manufacturers did use Tru -Oil because it was fast , cheap , and hard wearing . BUT it is NOT a true oil finish , call it what you like ,but it is a varnish.
To add I have found that my oil recipe posted on here does dry faster if you use Napthalene or Lighter fuel as a solvent / drier.
My oil finish has and is still being used by many ' BEST' English gunmakers .

AFAIC the only thing "oil" finishes have going for them is an uninformed snob appeal. Older "best" guns that did not have the benefit of modern substantial finishes did have the benefit of copious waxing which overcame the pitiful duability and water permeability of the BLO-based crap.
prolly not JMO

70+ years ago I recall helping my Dad rub-in BLO finishes on some fairly pricey stocks. By the 90's even he had wised up to the scam - an eminently practical man.

Sadly some never really learn how to apply BLO finishes