Has anyone used Belgiun bluing for damascus barrels? I'm curious as to how well the acid wash etches when this is used in the refinishing process, versus rust bluing? Also, where do you buy logwood? Thanks, Ed

Ed, I don't know how Belgium blue would work for doing barrels. If it is the same stuff I am thinking about, we used it for checking clearances on babbited bearings.

Any trapping supply would carry it, you can try this place.
http://www.fntpost.com/Categories/Trapping/Trap+Preparation+Trap+Tags/Trap+Dyes+Dips/

Thanks David. I don't have a damp box and was thinking the Belgium blue might save some time and offer more consistancy. Maybe more forgiving for the beginner.

If todays Belgian blue is the same as sold by Herter's many years ago & I think it is, it is an express rust blue. The rust is brought on rapidly by applying the solution, hot, to bbls having the temperature of boiling water. It also contains mercuric chloride which is quite poisinous. I used it years ago, but not on damascus. I have no idea how it would respond to the treatment to bring out the pattern.
This is not in anyway related to trappers dye, or to spotting blues such as Prussian Blue, commonly used in hand fitting parts.

Miller, thanks for the clarification between the two. It was Prussian blue we used to check bearings. It came in a small tube and only squeezed out a small amount and spread it sparingly on the surface to be checked.

Belgian (or express bluing) would just cover up the damascus pattern, same as slow rust bluing would.

I may just have to try it and see what happens. I can't think of any reason why the etchant would not work on the express blue.

Mr Hughes: Great article in the American Rifleman on grinding your own screw drivers.

I have recently got a set of damascus barrels and used my rust blue formula on one barrel and brown on the other, the rust blue will not bring up the pattern like the brown will, I have only done a few coats and already you can see a lack of pattern on the rust blue side.

not to steal the post from eeb, but barrel browner, isn't the difference between the two meaning the rust blue being boiled for 5 minutes then carded and the browned just using hot water to card. I have never browned a barrel as the barrels I am doing (L.C. Smiths) were rust blued.
On some that I have done, the Damascus pattern is hidden until it is dipped in the etchant for 5 seconds and carded again and this brings out the pattern.
On those recently blued Stub Twist barrels they were rusted 5 times and etched 2 times. Humidity was between 83%-93% and twice left overnight.

The etchant is 15% etchant and 85% distilled water.

Also I remember now that for the Logwood dye, mixing it and taking a sample in a clear glass container, if you can not see through it then it is right.

I've purchased logwood here:

http://www.aurorasilk.com/

JDW yes your right but the rust blue mixes are usually a lot stronger than the browns I was just experimenting to see how the damascus would react, I love the black and white finish you guys have and I am trying to find a simple way of doing it!!

Have you checked this out BB

http://docs.google.com/Doc?id=dfg2hmx7_194gwgwmqdh

I'm afraid there is no simple way, but I'd like to cut a couple corners with the express blue.

I has found one recipe 'logwood for barrels' in one book from 1926.
Its for fluid barrels, not damascus.
First of all traditional rust bluing 10-12 times using Fe2SO4 * 7H2O (ferrous sulphate, green crystals) and FeCl2 (iron chloride 1 1/2) solution. The final color dark chocolate with blue nuance.
Then 1,8 liter of spring water, 38.4 grams of logwood extract, 0.2 grams ferrous sulphate. Heat solution till boiling and put barrels in solution for 10 minutes.
The final color dark blue.

barrel browner, I tried sending you an email, would not go through to that address, then tried sending a PM, that didn't work either. If you want to send me your email address, mine is jdavidw1@comcast.net

Thanks Geno, I thougt is was only for non Damascus barrels. Dr. Gaddy mentioned about using it, stated amount and also used glass as an indicator for correct mixture.

Forget about trying a express blue for finishing composite barrels. I have done lots of experimening and it doesn't work. They always come out blotchy and inconsistent.

Tradional rust bluing is the only(jmho)method to finishing composite barrels.

Tom Flanigan's method is very accurate. Only a few points i wouldn't agree with, but who knows i could be wrong too.

Also i wouldn't waist my time with logwood powder. Get the chips/shaving from Aurora Silk.

Travis: I'd be most happy to make an addendum to Tom's tutorial if you have some pointers that might help someone. You're doing great work also.
revdoc2@cox.net

I guess my question has been answered. Using logwood for fluid steel barrrels makes complete sense.

Drew.......thanks!
However, no addendum is needed to Tom's tutorial. He does outstanding work and has freely given advice on composite refinishing.

What i like to do is, etch after each rusting. This keeps everything consistent and neutral. I think of it as builing one layer at a time. I don't boil in logwood until i get the black i'm seeking.

jdw my email is stevensandjohnson@talktalk.net