doublegunshop.com - home Forums Thread Like Summary - Scope Dope

What is the 'redialing the knobs to re-dead zero a mounted scope. I have an older Weaver USA mfg. 1" tube 2X7 vari-power that is locked at about 7 sclicks low and 4 clicks rt. and there is no more adjustment left- I am used a Lazer colimnator-bore sighter. This is on my 1950M70 in .220 Swift cal. ammo for that rifle is scarce and pricey, so prefer to to the rough adjustments with a bore scope- final targeting will be a 200yds. on our range "on paper" later on. RWTF

I don't own a "bore scope" or a laser for sighting in rifles. I set the rifle up on sand bags, remove the bolt and adjust the rifle until the bullseye is centered in the bore. Without allowing the rifle to move itself I then move the crosshairs until it is on the bull. Then, test fire one round. If you're certainly it was a good trigger pull and the crosshair was "on" when the trigger broke, keep the rifle immobile while you adjust the crosshairs to be dead on the bullet hole. Another round or two will verify the zero. Very little ammo used. I've done this for other people and they were amazed, but it's really very simple. You're just adjusting the scope to where your rifle is shooting that load.

If you are trying to center the cross hairs,,run each adjustment all the way to it's limit (doesn't matter one way or the other).
I think you have done this all ready.

Now reverse EACH adj and go all the way to the end of it's limit the other way,,,AND count the 'clicks' when doing this.

Then go back the other way once again with each adj...BUT only go HALF the number of clicks it took above.


That should get the Xhairs just about centered.

I've used the exact same method as Stan for years, and it saves a lot of ammo and aggravation. It's more fun to use ammo shooting small clusters than walking holes around a target. I'd prefer to never use a collimator spud in the bore of any rifle that I was able to remove the bolt and see through the bore. I feel this way for the same reasons I'd avoid running a cleaning rod in the muzzle when cleaning from the breech end is possible. I just don't want to risk any unnecessary wear or damage to the crown and muzzle rifling. For my muzzleloaders, I have made nylon bore guides on the lathe to use when cleaning or shooting at the range. If I'm careful, I can typically bore sight to within a couple inches of the aiming point at 100 yards. Without even firing a shot, that's as close as a lot of guys seem to manage after burning up a whole box of ammunition. Two shots using the method Stan detailed will usually get the rifle dialed in, and the third shot erases any doubts.


Agreed, except I have found that simply tapping on the reticle adjustment knobs with the end of a fired brass case after each adjustment seems to take care of any reticle movement lag, without firing extra shots. A couple light raps will do, and the brass is non-marring.

I am presently working on the zero on a 22-250. I have it at the top of the X in the bullseye at 50 yards with three rounds that can be covered by a dime that cut off the left top of the X. Now out to 100. Should I just adjust the scope reticle up before firing a shot group? If so, where do I want the crosshairs to be at 100 yards? I anticipate shots at coyotes at 200 or better. I have never been much of a rifle and scope guy as many can tell by my question.

I read today that there are bullets available now that will let the ol' Swift be loaded effectively to 4500 fps. That's smokin', and puts it in rare air, as far as centerfire varmint calibers go. Of course, the depleted uranium rounds that are used out of the M1 Abrams smoothbore gun leave at somewhere between 5700 and 6300 fps, according to who's talking, but that's another class of varmint gun, eh?

Eighty-eight years old and still outrunning the bunch. Pretty cool, IMO.

I read this trick somewhere on how to recenter a reticle.

Go to a bathroom mirror and put the objective bell up flat against the mirror. When you look through the scope you should see 2 reticles, adjust the knobs until both reticles are aligned.

Don't know why but it seems to work fine.

Years ago when I owned a 22-250 and I wanted to zero it in, looking at various books I read that all bullets cross the path of your eye twice. I forget now what the 22-250 was with a55 grain bullet but I believe it was 27 yards and 104 yards.
So as Stan stated if the gun is a bolt action remove the bolt and set a target at 27 yards and with the rifle rested look through the bore to set the rifle to hit the target then look through the scope.
Again if I am not mistaken a chuck at 400 yards aiming at his head the bullet would drop 4" at 3810 fps.