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Does anyone have a recommendation for a checkerer in the north east area. My checkerer is retiring and I need a good checkerer.

Craig Libhart
Susquehanna Stockworks
Finished up this for me last month 26 LPI

I would also highly recommend Doug Mann, although he is in northern Illinois.
Best Regards,
JBP

Thanks for that nice close-up pic, Joe. I was aware that is how FT checkering is done by a professional. I didn't ask my checkering lady if she could do it, and just went the "easy way". It turned out okay for a working gun like I was doing, and looks much more appropriate on a Sterlingworth than pointed up checkering would.

After checkering but before flat topping.



Here's how it looked after I flat topped it, but before finish.

First of all thank you Brian and Ted for you kind words.

True flat top checkering is very difficult to do there is NO room for errors. I know of only one individual that does true flat top checkering, his name is Ralf Martini. He made his own checkering tools and his work is superb. I've done a few flat top jobs and were good but not original in execution. I modified a spacer tip and a single line cutter to do the work, true flat top has parrel sides and the bottom of the groove is flat also at least that's what I've seen in original work.

Most of my work is done on Turkish walnut or one of the Stans. Turkish is beautiful but can be problematic in that it can have hard and soft spots in the same piece of wood is a very short surface space. It's like a box of chocolates if you understand my meaning. I also do work on California English walnut, that is a general term as it all doesn't come from California. I like California a lot! The finest wood, IMHO, is sourced from France or an area close. It has a subtle elegance that's not in "in your face" but is not likely to have any surprises. So there you have it, my opinion and mine only

I do charge for my work and why shouldn't I? There are a number of individuals in the USA that are highly skilled and do fine work, there also some that are not so skilled, you get what you pay for.

Doug

Stanton, the original flat top was cut with almost parallel, thin cutters. Hardly any taper at all. Big difference. The few that can do it make their own cutters. Flat top leaves very little room for errors—each top should be the same size as all others. Good reason todays checkers won’t do it.

Here is a modern example of finely cut flat top checkering. A very well known artist building the very finest flintlock rifles made this stock for his 6.5 Swedish Mauser. He explained to me the process and it’s problems.

Stan, that is a darned good looking bit of checkering on a vintage gun. Well done!

If you are actually going to use a gun, flat top checkering is overrated.

Some of the work I have seen by craftsmen like Doug Mann is stunning, functional, artwork applied to the stock of a gun.

Best,
Ted

I’m with Ted. I think flat top is a bit overrated both in aesthetics and functionality. I much prefer slightly “rounding” over pointed checkering on guns that came with flat tops originally. The look is more flattering and the checkering remains somewhat useful. Flat top lines also have to be cut a little deeper to give the good aesthetic effect, simply flatting pointed up diamonds leaves the lines a bit too shallow looking for an “original” look in my opinion.

Too bad none of the checkeres I know can’t or won’t do the flat top checkering that most of our vintage guns were originally cut with. Guess main reason is it’s incredibly difficult to properly do.

Which brings up another point. Many people think the checkering on their guns is worn out, sometimes being barely visible and flat. I’ve found that it’s most often not wear but the thin grooves flat top is cut with has filled in with oils and crud. Best way to ruin a vintage gun is to cut sharp point checkering. Just doesn’t look right regardless of how well it’s cut.