doublegunshop.com - home Forums Thread Like Summary - LC Smith Field- 1920s vs 1940s models?

Hello,

I have a 1947 LC Smith Field in good shape. Yesterday I was in my LGS reviewing the shotguns for sale when I noticed a new consignment shotgun- another LC Smith Field, but slightly less than I paid for mine [around $600, plus all fees for this one].

I was looking it over and it seems to be on a regular frame, instead of a Featherweight frame- but both have the armor steel barrel.

I've read about how in the late 1930s the company introduced changes to improve the stock.

My question is: is there any great difference between a regular frame and a FW frame LC Smith Field?

My second question was whether the 1920s LC Smith Field would, all things being equal, be considered more or less desirable than a 1946/47 model? [At least, I think this is a regular frame from the 20s. It has an R stamped in front of the numbers, is marked Field on the Armor barrels- and the only other date that might line up with serial numbers would be somewhere around 1900- before Field grades and armor barrels.]

BTW, I am more of a shooter than an investor/collector.

I don't see LCs this inexpensive in my area, so I am very tempted. Yet, I don't need 2 that are essentially the same. I have enough other options. In fact, my wife would like me to sell half of my shotguns. Then I'd only have a bakers' dozen.

But, If there is some advantage of one over the other, maybe it would be worth getting the 20s production and selling my 47.

Then, she wouldn't hate me.

So, any advice about the differences in quality, reliability, handling?

Didn't say it was broken. Just that it was opening itself slightly upon firing the first barrel, whether left or right. One possible reason could be that the toplever spring has weakened somewhat. Leaf springs sometimes do that with repeated use. I have had original m/l double shotguns that had a weakened mainspring in the right lock, because it got used so much more than the left.

It may turn out to be something else causing the issue, such as poor fitment of the locking hook, but it worked perfectly for years then started this. Regardless the cause, Jim Kelly will sort it out, I have no doubt. I left two new toplever springs with him, if that turns out to be the cause. If I'm wrong and the cause turns out to be something else I will try to remember to bring this thread back up and make note of that here.