Very informative thread, thanks to all that added to it.
As I stated in the General Discussion, I learned mostly from what Dr. Gaddy had posted many years ago and have used his technique. What I haven't read on here was when leaving the barrels in for rusting and then when ready for etching, what do you put in your barrels for protection? For rusting, I use rubber plugs with 1/4" copper tubing bent 90 degrees so the ends are out of the water, for etching I just use rubber plugs. I tried one time using a shellac coat on the inside of the barrels but too much time getting it out. Like Kutter stated, a weep hole is indispensable and most if not all L.C. Smith's have a weep hole near the loop for drainage.
As for bottom ribs not fully soldered, I don't think I have seen one that was soldered fully. I have taken a .001 narrow feeler gage along the bottom ribs and have had it go under the ribs on both sides in a few places. Rust blueing them doesn't hurt anything but when you etch Damascus barrels I always take them out of the solution the bottom rib is facing up when I rinse them under running water. Learned that the hard way.
I hang them to dry and use a propane torch and get it warm to the touch and then spray Kroil oil in the weep hole and hang the breech end up.
Like I stated in the General Discussion, I only do this for myself, no one to answer to except me.
The one thing that I have to say is that I have seen L.C. Smith's refurbished along with refinished barrels and even some of the top notch people doing the work put a high finish on the barrels, From Field Grade to Deluxe they all had a matte finish. So beware of someone selling one that way that states 90% condition as it is not.
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