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I suppose you could hunt woodcock or grouse with 9s, but, I never have.

I met Don Zutz at a skeet shoot at my local club, when I was a 30 something, and bought a few of his books. He had written what I had spent my time discovering to that point, a 1 ounce load of 6s out of something that you would hunt in the upper Midwest was about perfect.
I shoot some 7 1/2s at grouse early in the season, depending on what I have and what is on sale. But, for birds, that is the minimum.

7 1/2 or 8s at clay targets.

Not sure I have 9s in the house.

Best,
Ted

I have others also not listed.

I think you're mis-stating the reality of it. The Sterlingworth internals were kept to the same high quality as the graded guns. With A H Fox guns, the graded guns were offered years before the Sterlingworth was. Point is, the graded guns weren't of a lower quality internally, the Sterlingworth was just above average in internal quality, for guns of a competitive nature in other makes. Big difference.

I'm mostly a "Fox man" myself, but I can appreciate and enjoy Parkers. My latest acquisition is a DHE Parker 16/20 that may well become my go to dove gun, for later season birds.

Good luck, Rich.

33 days, and counting ...............

The species isn't critical. Having the size of the chunks small enough to ensure it packs tightly to minimize air pockets. I've done 5 or 6 actions and know what mix I want, just need the right wood charcoal to not be starting from scratch.

Gil you can leave them in ,I've done many sets with the ivory in and never an issue ,you obviously have to be careful if you card with a wheel...getting them out is a crap shoot

I had heard this technique was common in England also.

Is the serial number stamped on the stock anywhere? We’re talking a SAC 30K S/N gun. Thanks.

I don't know who made the op's shot gun, but I'll offer up a couple observations.
The Whitworth markings on the bottom of the tubes of the OP gun look as they should. By that I mean to say that the
Trade Mark is deeply stamp into the steel. It was likely done (IMO) when the bbl was still in a rough bored state as the marking is so very deep and done with a single marking stamp.

To do that deep of a mark on a finished or nearly so tube will dent the tube. Gun fakers found that out and it's an easy way to spot those.
Maybe a mandrel was placed inside the bore at that spot to do those markings and then the final reaming was done after the marking.

The other thing is that the 'Sir Joseph Whitworth......' marking is a roll stamp marking.
Also quite deep but many have lost some depth from final finishing. Their placement on the tube is in a position where most can't be hand engraved into that location with any sort of ease and come out looking like a
decent roll marking. In other words to do this marking aftermarket, it has to be done by hand and in a position that is favorable to hand engraving.
Roll marking can be done, but on a completed bbl assembly, the bbl flats, forearm hanger get in the way.
Plus the bbl wall is thin, so the extreme depth of the orig markings can't be easily duplicated w/o them damaging the inner bore surface.

On the pics that Raimey posted of the barrels with the Whitworth markings,,those first two examples are hand cut (engraver) lettered.
The lettering is easily seen as being done by hand. Letters don't match one tube compared to the other.
The layouts are placed where it was easiest to do them by hand engraving,,not that they couldn't have been placed there originally. But again it's simple to see that they are hand cut.

The Whitworth 'Trade Mark' on the first one is a simple attempt to cut it in by hand engraving and using some punches to replicate the true trademarking. But it's not even close.
One thing that does stand out is that where they did plant the 'Trade Mark', there is a shallow but defined depression in the bbl wall.

That brings to question of wether either the attempt was made to stamp a trademark in that spot but failed (the bbl is springy and doesn't stamp easily especially when trying for the depth needed).
So that attempt was removed and what you see was added.
Or.. there was another Mark there of some sort, removed and the Whitworth trade mark put into place.
I don't think a Whitworth Trade Mark was there and then removed and the lettering recut. Why remove the vestige of what you would eventually want to put back there?

On the second example there was some sort of a figure/symbol in the position that the TradeMArk would have been.
About the 7 or 8 oclock position on the upper tube (LH tube) you can see what looks like the ends of (I'll call it ) Lobes for lack of any other word.
Doesn't strike me as part of the Whitworth TradeMArk,,but ..


Those Belgian guys made some nice guns...

To me it looks like the bottom limb like a 1897 wr falling block is a rebound spring and it is a beautiful piece of work mark

Lovely gun. Thanks for posting. 14 1/2" LOP is nice for a gun of the period. I can't see anything at all to complain about except my lack of funds to buy it immediately!

https://imgur.com/a/gbQzsAh

Hi,

I have just signed up to imgur so if the above photo does not show 4 shot flasks blame them not me.

Thank you to everyone who helped with photos to help me with my question about how a Sykes patent shot flask operates.

I now know the answer as I stuck in a “cheeky bid”, £2 over bottom estimate at the last Holts sale and it won!

The one on the left is a modern repro , the middle 2 are Sykes patent, and the right hand one is unnamed and the odd one out.

The Sykes (and copy) have a shot measure with a slanted leading edge like a coal scoop.

When pushed into the flask, it slides under the bottom of the shutter forcing it upwards against the spring so that the shutter raises allowing shot to fill the measure.

When the thumb catch is depressed and the measure withdrawn the shutter descends to retain the rest of the shot in the flask.

The 2 genuine Sykes flasks are Adjustable 1 1/2, 1 3/4 and 2 oz.

That is achieved by an inner sleeve withdrawn by the button under the thumb catch, the inner sleeve is rotated slightly to disengage a stud from the 1 1/2 setting (much like an adjustable powder flask) withdrawn and reset to the quantity desired.

The odd one on the right is marked 1 1/2 and has no retaining shutter.

The measure has a squared off end with a slight scallop on one side.

Presumably the measure is withdrawn with the flask held upright, and the the lip of the flask held against the scallop to carefully decant enough shot .

Temporary fix that also preserves originality would be to build up top of safety slide with epoxy putty to form a ramp for your thumb to push against.

It should break away fairly easily if you want to get rid of it.

Mind you don’t get any under the safety!

I have used it to build up, filing it to shape and right height, then painting Matt black, to raise the military barleycorn front sights of a couple of Martini carbines that shot very high at 100 yards.

Hello Buckstix , The Magazine you are looking for is listed in the back of my latest DGJ as available , Winter 2015 for 15.00 plus shipping ! The contact for the DGJ is { 1-800-447-1658 } ,Hope this helps ,I have the entire set but don't have any extra magazines to pass on ! OOhay

Neither, 440.

Up

I'm not sure what self-opening H&H you have inspected but the normal self-opening H&H works totally independently of the fired state of either lock. It is a compressor under the forend which operates at full strength regardless of the state of either lock. I think you are confusing the H&H self-opener with the 'assisted opener' of C&H, normal Boss and Baker '12/20' patent among others.

We are all really screwed up! I too am left eye dominant but shoot right handed. When I grew up it was almost forbidden to do anything left handed and I even had school teachers paddle my left hand when I picked up a pen with the left. Well, they only halfway succeeded, now I’m very ambidextrous except shooting a rifle or shotgun. Pistols are either hand—doesn’t make me any difference (I’ll miss with either). My right eye learned a long time ago to take over with a longarm and I have no problem. Weird!

We can determine the cartridge the drilling is chambered for, if you provide a chamber cast and "slug" the bore. Neither the serial number and none of the pre- proofmark markings will help in this regard.
Mike

I use it a good bit in old cartridges. Just be careful ( as with any powder) and remember what you can lose trying to get an extra 100 fps you don't need.
Mike

Anyone notice in the Spring Edition of Westley Richards' Catalogue that they had completed the 100th example of the 0.577" - 3" Nitro Express being >>The rifle is one of Westley Richards signature best quality hand detachable lock models, with extra hand detachable locks, model C dolls head fastener, snap action lever work and patent single selective trigger.<< The elaborate adornment was by Italian mechanic Dario Cortini...


Serbus,

Raimey
rse

yeah, ah suppose that could be done....but, what if it aint just about how it looks...notice the ebony inlays are set crossed grained to the stock wood...maybe they are serving some reinforcing purpose...an what if ihey are one piece of solid wood...best not to mess with it...

besides, i like the contrasting wood look...an its ok that you dont...

I have an A Grade that suffered a barrel failure before I bought it. The fix included fitting a set of 30" barrels from Pumpkin Mountain plus a nice job of restocking. It's a real joy to shoot targets with that gun.

Before trying to find .38 Long Colt, you should be sure of your chamber dimensions, as the .38 Long colt may be slightly smaller. Much cheaper and easier to trim .38 Special cases for making up your loads. And if you do much reloading at all a case length trimmer is a must have to ensure all cases are the same correct length.

An email to Rich Cole will likely get you the answer.