doublegunshop.com - home Forums General Discussion DoubleGun BBS @ doublegunshop.com OT-wood finish

This is way off topic, but this site has some real woodworking talent. So, I'll stretch the envelope for a recommendation.

I just installed a set of Anderson french doors from my den to patio and the interior is bare oak (venier I believe). I'd like to finish the oak with a rub on finish without the hassle of sprays and brushes, then steelwool it and wax it for a low sheen.

Can anyone recommend a fastdrying finish product (not linseed please) and methods?

MinWax brand wood stain. Comes in many colors, it's a great product.

I have had good luck with Minwax Wipe-on Poly. It is a modified Poly Ureathane and dries in 2-3 hours. It comes in a satin finish that will probably eliminate the need for steel wool, although I like to use the white/gray scotch pads to ensure a smooth finish.

Jim

Jim,
Should it be thinned for application?

Chuck,

Like a gunstock, I thin the first couple of coats with 20% solvent. I do not do any sanding between the first 4 coats, but I do keep them as thin as possible from an application point. Two thinned, two unthinned. Particular attention to end grain.

Jim

Chuck,

I finished a wood (oak)table in my wife's craft room with Briwax. I could not have been easier to use. You just rub it on and buff it the next day. It comes in a varity of colors. It has held up to paint spills, water spills and syuck on glue and I have not had to go back and refinish for about five years now.

Bill G.

Chuck, I edited my post. The Wipe-on I use is Satin, not stain. Sorry, not enough coffee after a night of rough storms!

Jim

Chuck, NEVER use steel wool on oak. The steel fibers can leave residue in the wood (in the grain or in the joints) and the tannins in the oak will chemically react with the iron and cause black stains in the oak. Doesn't require much moisture to cause the reaction, normal humidity will do it over time. That's why you seldom see antique oak furniture with iron hinges or pulls, but rather with brass hardware. If you must buff the finish, use brass wool or Scotch Brite from an auto body supply to knock down the gloss.

Where is John Mann when we need him?

Chuck
I'm going to piggy back on to your OT post with my own OT question, I hope it's okay. I'm refinishing a 20' Starcraft aluminum boat for salt water use and want to protect the (brand new) cheap exterior grade plywood decking from future rot with a coat or two of white enamle oil-based paint (and Kilz). How can I prep the wood to be assured that the paint will stick and stay stuck. Looks don't matter cause I'm covering it with I/O carpeting. I've had aluminum salt water boats in the past and learned most of the tricks (the hard way) but I remember getting paint to stick to plywood over the season was tough.
Again, thanks.
Steve

Chuck the advise from jjwag69 is good. The Wipe-On Poly ils a water base and is thin to begin with and if you wipe it on you will not put too much on. If you let it dry for more than 4 hours I believe they tell you to lightly scuff it up with sandpaper or with scotch brite pad (brown). It dries fairly fast and by the time you reach the other side you can start all over again. If you put a few gloss finish coats first it will build up a nice resistant coat, and then go over with a satin to dull it down.

Rockdoc, try using a marine spar varnish and then paint it. The spar varnish is flexible and the paint should adhere just fine.