doublegunshop.com - home Forums General Discussion DoubleGun BBS @ doublegunshop.com Help With L C Smith Re-Assembly

Jim, by not working do you mean that you cannot move the safe to on or off, because with the Hunter One-Trigger the safety is a manual safety, it will not go to safe when the gun is opened.

Also on the 3 position safety which it wouldn't have with the Hunter One-Trigger, in the rear postion when the gun is broken the safety will not return to safe, only in the most forward position will it return to safe.

The only thing that you could have done wrong was to put the safety link in the wrong spot in the safety slide.
Unfortuatley you have to take it apart again. This time when you do it push the safety forward and then place the trigger assembly in and watch that the bar in the safety link catches in the notch of the safety slide. Then release the top lever by pushing down on the trip and try moving the safety and try the trigger. You will have to move the top lever to the open position again, it will be harder to do since there is nothing for the spring to hold. Also before you move the top lever you will see that the top lever shaft is a lot closer to the hole for alignment, but you won't be able to put the top trigger plate screw in because the lever will be hiding the hole.

David
jdavidw1@comcast.net

Didn't see your post that you had it fixed as I was writing this one. Glad you got it.

David and Mike:
Again thanks for the help. BTW David what is the grade of your L.C.? Mine is a 3E but obviously yours is higher.
Jim

Jim, Glad to se you got your L.C. reassembled. I will still relate the method I saw in Brownells Gunsmith Kinks(vol 3, pg. 331). This is a 4 volume set that is a compilation of thousands of tips and techniques submitted by gunsmiths over many years. It sells at a nice discount if you buy the set and they usually have a coupon for same in their catalog. Very worthwhile and I am waiting for vol.5. Hopefully this plug will protect me from copyright infringement problems. Anyway, the contributor suggests assembling the gun and just snugging first the front screw, and then the one behind the screwhole for the top lever screw to have some tension on the lever shaft. Then he suggests pushing the lever to the left, opposite of the way you open the gun, while pressing down from the top at the pivot point. He cautions to push from the midpoint of the lever rather than the end and says some are harder than others, so there may be a risk of pushing too hard and breaking the lever. He says it will snap right in and then the screws can be tightened and lever screw installed. Bob Brownell refers us to Brophys' Plans and Specifications of the L.C. Smith Shotgun pg.208 for the original factory procedure. I read my copy and it is a 2 page process that involves the punch and V notched screwdriver mentioned by others here. Much of it involves proper seating of the safety notch and pushrod and he advises covering the area with tape to prevent scratching wood or metal. I must've got lucky on the ones I did years ago because I think I levered them over with a punch and had no problem or buggered threads.

Jim, Glad to se you got your L.C. reassembled. I will still relate the method I saw in Brownells Gunsmith Kinks(vol 3, pg. 331). This is a 4 volume set that is a compilation of thousands of tips and techniques submitted by gunsmiths over many years. It sells at a nice discount if you buy the set and they usually have a coupon for same in their catalog. Very worthwhile and I am waiting for vol.5. Hopefully this plug will protect me from copyright infringement problems. Anyway, the contributor suggests assembling the gun and just snugging first the front screw, and then the one behind the screwhole for the top lever screw to have some tension on the lever shaft. Then he suggests pushing the lever to the left, opposite of the way you open the gun, while pressing down from the top at the pivot point. He cautions to push from the midpoint of the lever rather than the end and says some are harder than others, so there may be a risk of pushing too hard and breaking the lever. He says it will snap right in and then the screws can be tightened and lever screw installed. Bob Brownell refers us to Brophys' Plans and Specifications of the L.C. Smith Shotgun pg.208 for the original factory procedure. I read my copy and it is a 2 page process that involves the punch and V notched screwdriver mentioned by others here. Much of it involves proper seating of the safety notch and pushrod and he advises covering the area with tape to prevent scratching wood or metal. I must've got lucky on the ones I did years ago because I think I levered them over with a punch and had no problem or buggered threads.

Jim, Glad to see you got your L.C. reassembled. I will still relate the method I saw in Brownells Gunsmith Kinks(vol 3, pg. 331). This is a 4 volume set that is a compilation of thousands of tips and techniques submitted by gunsmiths over many years. It sells at a nice discount if you buy the set and they usually have a coupon for same in their catalog. Very worthwhile and I am waiting for vol.5. Hopefully this plug will protect me from copyright infringement problems. Anyway, the contributor suggests assembling the gun and just snugging first the front screw, and then the one behind the screwhole for the top lever screw to have some tension on the lever shaft. Then he suggests pushing the lever to the left, opposite of the way you open the gun, while pressing down from the top at the pivot point. He cautions to push from the midpoint of the lever rather than the end and says some are harder than others, so there may be a risk of pushing too hard and breaking the lever. He says it will snap right in and then the screws can be tightened and lever screw installed. Bob Brownell refers us to Brophys' Plans and Specifications of the L.C. Smith Shotgun pg.208 for the original factory procedure. I read my copy and it is a 2 page process that involves the punch and V notched screwdriver mentioned by others here. Much of it involves proper seating of the safety notch and pushrod and he advises covering the area with tape to prevent scratching wood or metal. I must've got lucky on the ones I did years ago because I think I levered them over with a punch and had no problem or buggered threads.

Keith:
I ended up using a tapered hardened punch and a slotted tool to lever/push mine over in place so I guess I also got lucky. I will certainly consider buying that series of books you referenced above. The problem I have here any more is if I can't correct the problem where would I turn for assistance? It seems any more that if it isn't a Glock pistol or something like an M 16 rifle there are no gunsmiths that can assist. I'm not putting down more modern firearms as they certainly have their place. It's just a shame to me that gunsmiths apparently aren't learning anymore how to service any of these classic firearms.
Jim