doublegunshop.com - home Forums General Discussion DoubleGun BBS @ doublegunshop.com Help With L C Smith Re-Assembly

I have a problem re-assembling my pre 1913 L C Smith. I can't seem to get the small screw that goes thru the trigger plate in front of the trigger guard to line up with the hole in the bottom of the top lever. appreciate any help.
Jim

I feel your pain....I hate that spring. There are 2 methods that work. Either insert a small strong punch into the shaft for the top lever and pry it over into place and slip the trigger plate onto the shaft or, drill a hole in the stock under the sideplate where it cannot be seen and inline with the shaft and push it into place. Either way works.
Steve

Jim, i know what you mean! I believe there is a thread on the LC Smith Collectors Sight showing the proper steps. The toplever spring is very strong and is preventing you from getting toplever shaft to line up with hole in trigger plate. You can get the two trigger plate screws lightly started, then take a small punch or steel rod that fits the shaft hole,then cut a notch in center or flat head screwdriver blade and use it to push the shaft over to proper position. Hope this helps. Bobby

Steve, You beat me! Bobby

I know nothing about them, but this may help.

sv

http://www.picturetrail.com/gallery/view?p=999&gid=15525639&uid=6511424

Jim, Before you drill any holes or anything drastic, if you can wait a few days I'll re-read the instructions given in one of the Brownells' Gunsmith Kinks books. As I recall, it was as simple as pushing the toplever opposite of the way you move it to open the gun, but I wouldn't swear to that. I have done it myself a few times with difficulty and was impressed that the proper way was so simple. Going out of town for the weekend, so I'll post it when I get back.

There are several methods, including the one Steve Voss referenced, that are better than sticking a rod into the shaft hole. You may get away with that technique the first time you try it or, like many nimrods, totally bugger the threaded shaft. Then it's drilling and tapping and making/finding an oversize screw....ugly.

If you search on the LC site, you'll find several methods explained that don't lead to heartache.

Jim, the small center punch is the way that they did it in the factory, but added to that is that you don't use the center punch to pull it over. You take an old screwdriver and put a "V" in the blade, and you use this to push the punch over to line up the top lever post shaft to the trigger plate. There is a countersunken area where the shaft fits.

I tried doing it that way and there is a good chance you can scratch the trigger plate housing or slip and dig into the stock.

Russ Ruppel gave me a detailed article on how to do it using a 6" c clamp. On the fixed jaw drill a hole for a press fit for a piece of drill rod 3/32" or 1/8". The piece of drill rod should be 1 1/2" long. On the side of the stock that the spring has to move is where you want to drill a hole in the stock about 1/4" in from the end of the stock and close to the bottom where the shaft is. Align the spot where the hole has to go using the top lever shaft as a guide. Put the one side plate on and put the moveable jaw on it. (with masking tape on the jaw or sideplate) The receiver and stock should be in a vice , I use a wood workers vise with pine jaws to hold the receiver, and it is naturally put in the vice with the triggers up. The screws for the trigger plate housing should not be tightened yet, just snug. The top lever post should be slightly proud, about 1/8" up. Align the pin in the fixed jaw to the hole and start to turn the handle of the clamp. Watching through the hole where the 4-40 screw goes until it is in alignment with the hole. Reach underneath and tap the top lever down flush to the top tang and now it should be in the fit of the trigger housing. Take the c clamp off. Put the 4-40 screw in and then tighten the other screws of the trigger plate housing. Lastly tighten the 4-40 screw and tap down again on the top lever and retighten the screw.

I had to drill the hole in my c clamp from the top and press the drill rod into it, and then I peened the hole over so that the drill rod wouldn't work itself out. Make sure if you do this that the pin showing is at least 1 1/4" long.

Any problems email me and I will go through it with you.
David
jdavidw1@comcast.net

I've been trying the technique suggested by BBman above and while I can move it over it won't snap in. I think it's because the top lever is riding up in the action. After trying for a couple of hours I think I'm done for today.
I see there's been further posts. I don't believe I have the necessary equipment to make this C clamp jig but I'll see. I'm away tomorrow but I'll get back on this Sunday. Thanks to all for all the suggestions and help.
I think it's time for a Martini.
Jim

Jim, if you are using that technique then you have to be careful and not push down on the punch or else you will move the top lever out away from the fit. I would put a block of wood under the top lever to keep it from moving down.
Like I said this is the way they did it at the factory, but then again, it this is all you do you get pretty proficiant at it.