Thanks to all for the info. I have not used the CA glues on wood but will try them. I am most interested in the comments about invisible joints. I know CA glue is strongest in tension and relatively weak in shear on non-porous materials, so I wonder how it will hold up on splits at stock heads. I assume the dyes and walnut dust are mixed with epoxy where pieces or patches don't fit perfectly. I say this because it seems glue repairs are almost invariably visible because they are darker than surrounding wood. I also wonder if the glue joints tend to darken with age under the finish. My test samples with undyed epoxy and Titebond II are now virtually invisible, but I will apply several common stock finishes to see how that holds. And I'd still like to hear from anyone who has used the Polyurethane glues on walnut, so keep those cards and letters coming. Final test bed will be an Ithaca I bought with the intention of restocking. It has a broken piece at toe, and pieces split off and missing on both sides of top tang. I'm thinking it would be preferable to have original wood if it can be done nicely. This gun had a boars tooth screwed to the stock to cover the larger of the missing tang pieces. I told the seller it's not often we see a Flues with ivory inlays. Talk about your upgrades...
