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Joined: Jan 2002
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Sidelock
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Do a Tobin. If we can get Darryl to post a pic of Frank Major's personal gun, you would have something to shoot for.

No one is standing in line for a Tobin.
Best,
Ted

Joined: Mar 2005
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Joined: Mar 2005
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Follow Maestro Hurst's directions. He REALLY knows his business. Regards


Exorcisms performed cheaply. "We get the Hell out!"
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Sidelock
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Pete is correct, pass on anything Ithaca.


Walter c. Snyder
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Sidelock
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If you get your Tobin, let me know and I'll send something for you to copy.

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Sidelock
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Joined: Oct 2004
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Flat side M21 gives plenty of room for creativity. I do favor the Fox, however.

Jim

Last edited by jjwag69; 03/01/08 02:46 PM.
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Walter is finally seeing the light.

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Sidelock
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Blank slates can be any side plated gun. Bakers, Lefever, Smiths or even a small bore Crescent. I would pass on the Smith they have a well earned reputation for cracking the stock. Any Sterlingworth is a candidate as should be many of the early A grades with no condition left as collectible guns.

Find a gun with good barrels and one that is on face and you are in good shape. Never buy a project gun, for an upgrade which will cost hundreds just to get the barrels and action into safe shape to shoot. Better to put your time and money into other areas of the project. Like wood and fine scratching.

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Sidelock
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For a beginning engraver I'd not recommend an original Winchester 21 only in that the metal can be one of the most unforgiving and frustrating creations to work on. You may however develop some fantastic tool sharpening skills by the time you are done. I'd recommend an older gun that was originally casehardened that can now be annealed so a nice soft steel is presented and the engraver can concentrate on his work. Any of the box lock guns,,Fox, Ithaca (NID or Flues), Lefever N/Special, etc. They are all decent guns with similar action shapes. If you are going to get into action reshaping, stocking and other custom work, then most any gun is acceptable, but to keep it affordable as a project for a beginning engraver, I'd choose one of those. Stick with something that has good barrels and mechanics to start with to avoid it becoming a money pit instead of just an engraving project.

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Sidelock
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KY Jon and Kutter have the most important advice. Buy a project gun based on its mechanical and barrel condition. All else is carved away by the frame filer. A full coat of rust on a low mileage gun is the sign of a great project gun.

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Do you think this is a pretty good example of a project gun?
It is a Win 21 two bbl set with false sidelocks ( otherwise known as real sideplates) metalwork upgraded and restored by Stephen Heilmann, stocked by Gary Goudy.
This piece came from the collection of the late Terry Wallace.
It will be engraved sometime in the next year or two.




Last edited by Barry Lee Hands; 03/01/08 08:12 PM.

All the best,
Barry Lee Hands
http://www.barryleehands.com

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