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Forums10
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Jul 28th, 2025
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Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 696
Sidelock
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OP
Sidelock
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 696 |
What would be a good classic double for a beginning engraver to work on, without having to worry about whether or not he's ruining a piece of history if he makes a mistake? A DS or I Lefever, for instance, seems like a good blank slate, but they are still relatively rare.
Imagination is everything. - Einstein
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Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 13,883 Likes: 21
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 13,883 Likes: 21 |
I'd think a Savage Fox BSE that has been recontoured and sculpted (more practice). If that's not high enough quality, Citori's are a highly available gun that couldn't be hurt much.
Last edited by Chuck H; 03/01/08 10:25 AM.
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Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 3,478 Likes: 54
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 3,478 Likes: 54 |
Sterlingworth 12 gauge.
Lefever Nitro Special 12 gauge (maybe Chuck will post a pic of his engraved .410 Nitro).
Ithaca Flues/Crass/Lewis 12 in the lowest grades.
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Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 1,935
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 1,935 |
It's funny you mention this. There's been a big trend in Parkers to remove engraving from guns. With common V Grades bringing all time high prices, a lot of collectors are having the scrollwork removed from B and C grade guns to 'downgrade' to the hot V and G grades. Right now there are plenty of guys trying to figure just how to make a fancy Circassian walnut (Jergens Offlia) look like straight grained American walnut. I were you, I'd buy me a Parker 28 in B grade and make a sweet little V out of it.
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Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 751 Likes: 18
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 751 Likes: 18 |
I vote for the Fox Sterlingworth, particularly the small gauge guns. They are still fairly affordable and make a really nice canvas to work with. I've got a couple of pictures to show the first one shows a frame that is just about ready to be stocked and the frame below is a frame that has been annealed and is waiting for shaping. the second picture is a finished version.  
Doug Mann
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Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 1,583
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 1,583 |
Another vote for a Citori.
It's common, inexpensive and has simple exterior design, keeping your first canvas' outlines under control. The rolled engraving is superficial and will be easier to file off after annealing. Lots of options on wood replacement too.
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Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 2,468
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 2,468 |
The Ithica family is far too ugly to waste engraving on. The other American classics and Browning Superposed are great to engrave as they are worth more than that for which they can be purchased and the metal is soft and easy to engrave.
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Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 696
Sidelock
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OP
Sidelock
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 696 |
Great replies, thanks all. There's a 30" 12 sterlywhirly at a shop nearby that would be ideal (I need a duck gun anyway). The barrels and receiver are in perfect shape already (it actually has a fair amount of case), very tight and lever right, but it has a very short stock. Best of all, it can be had for about $500. Since I would have to take the stock off anyway...
Imagination is everything. - Einstein
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Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 7,896 Likes: 653
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 7,896 Likes: 653 |
I have a Fox pin gun that I have been thinking about having engraved like a high grade Parker. It would piss off my Parker collector friends to see their special engraving on the Fox. More than one of them has seen the gun and made nice remarks about me shooting a "real" gun until they see it is a Fox. If I was really serious I would make it the first A-1 Special Fox grade but even my sense of humor has financial limits of a ever decreasing checkbook.
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Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 1,698
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 1,698 |
Mark ---- I would suggest you duplicate the side of the raised table of the S/W onto a piece of cold steel before starting to engrave the actual action. You can make a cutout or just outline the shape onto a steel plate. Do your layout on this first before you begin engraving same. If you are happy with what you have accomplished, do the same pattern on the frame. This takes a little more time BUT, you don't take the chance of screwing anything up. Have you done any practice plates yet ? If so, please send me some pictures of your samples. Best regards, ken. kenhurst@suddenlink.net
Ken Hurst
910-221-5288
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