doublegunshop.com - home Forums General Discussion DoubleGun BBS @ doublegunshop.com solder breakdown due to powder solvent

Interesting thread. I just returned from a trip to my basement, where I read the labels on Shooter's Choice, Sweets 7.62, Klenzoil, Breakfree CLP, Remington bore cleaner. All of them claimed to REMOVE lead, carbon, copper and plastic fouling. NONE of them claimed or even hinted at DISOLVING lead. It would be interesting to know where the solder attacking stories get started. Least likely is from provable personal experience. I've heard Hoppe's #9 blamed for causing nickel plating to come off old revolvers, over the years. That seems highly unlikely to me, as well. SMLE Kid's idea on why ribs come loose at the front and rear makes far more sense to me than some bore cleaner being at fault.

I'm not saying the more aggessive solvents do or don't affect soldered ribs. I'm just going with what works for me and if I'm going to be wrong, I'd rather it be by not using something I don't need. I don't use Borax soap everytime I wash my hands either.

But let's be clear here, solder is about 2/3rds tin with the smaller portion being lead. So, the care of tin is at least as much a concern as the lead.

Newer guns have better solder obviously, or even silver solder. Hell hi-force 44 is 96% tin, and Im still not convinced that any long term use of any solvent, other than something that is definitely not designed for wiping guns barrels down with, is going to loosen a rib. I say we do a mythbusters test on some old scrap guns. Chuck, dont you know somebody with a bunch of barrels? Lets soak them in a variety of "solvents" and see what happens.

Channing,
I'm thinking that you just take some thick (1/8" or more) solid wire solder and cut 2" long pieces and put them in jars/testtubes of the juice of choice and either let them go for a year or two or heat for accelerated reaction (common test in the lube and other industries for reactive tests). After the exposure time of choice, pull the samples and bend them over a sharp corner in a consistant manner to see what happens. Save samples that were not exposed and do the same for baseline. Eval the surfaces for corrosion as well. I figure a yr or two is all that's needed for a test along with every solvent you might use...off hand a couple Hoppes types, a few Shooter's Choice types, Gunslick, maybe some others and you may as well toss in Breakfree and a few other lubes. A tensile test would be better but I think bending will show any significant weakening in tensile strength.

Great idea. You might try two pieces of metal soldered together also.

Jim

Back when Georgia had birds i shot two guns mostly, a 20 superposed and 20 ga. Parker GHE and i cleaned them after each use thousands of times with #9 solvent and ribs are as tight as ever! Bobby

Gee whiz, Bobby. Georgia still has PLENTY of birds. The only difference between then and now is you have to go by the place and pick them up in a box before you go "Huntin'"...Geo

Hoppes does not remove lead. It should not have an effect on a rib. Use two different kinds, one for internal to remove lead and plactic and Hoppes or some other oil on the outside.

Lenard

All the makers claim lead removing characteristics, including Hoppes. But, it's possible the tin is more of a concern than the lead.

http://www.gunbroker.com/Auction/ViewItem.asp?Item=92936708

The pic of the muzzle looks like something has been eating away at the solder. No mention of the delaminating ribs in the ad.