doublegunshop.com - home Forums General Discussion DoubleGun BBS @ doublegunshop.com Black spots on wood?

Trying to decide whether an old gun is worth restoration. There are several black spots in the wood but when I pulled the locks there is no oil damage, the wood looks good underneath.

Still, I suspect it may be old oil damage. If I decide to restore and refinish the wood, will bleach take car of those spots?

It should. It worked for me on a Parker stock. I used Oxalic acid which can be bought at most paint stores. It bleaches the area without affecting the wood. Just take a quarter teaspoon of the crystals in half glass of warm water (if they don't give directions) I used a Q-tip to apply but you can use a rag. Although it won't be strong in that concentration, latex gloves are advised as is eye protection. I did not rinse and it was fine but a damp paper towel is probably a good idea.

It took a minute to work and I was amazed.

You might first use heat and whiting to see if you can draw the oil out. Wipe with acetone, let dry and repeat. This method is used by a pro stocker friend of mine, and it has worked wonders on some old brit guns. Of course, you will need to refinish when you are done, and may still have to do some bleaching or acid work.

The oxalic acid sound like good stuff if it works. I once used whiting on a milsurp, what a mess. But that was to draw oil out. These are oil stains and when we pulled the locks the wood underneath was sound.

Here's a pic, what do you think? Were the stains on your Parker this bad?

Not as bad as yours. I had already done the acetone soak for three days and had about a quarter of that. It is cheap. If I recall I paid around $8 for a pound of crystals. It is used to clean up old oak hardwood floors. I never used it for that but was aware of it. It was suggested by a board member and suddenly I remembered it also. I gave it a try and almost gave up since I am a bit impatient. While I was sitting there thinking the spots disappeared. I don't think it can hurt anything so it is worth a try. Try a couple of small areas first. Is the finish removed so it can get to the wood?

The assumption here is that the stains are caused by the oil. I don't think it is based on the pictures. For example, the area behind the lock might be a reaction to the metal and something on the hands of the earlier shooter.

Please let us know how it works out. I am very interested.

I have such stains on a Winchester Highwall stock. I don't think they are oil stainds either. They are not associated with the metal work where I might expect oil to first accumulate and they don't seem soft at all. I just leave them alone myself. Part of the gun's history I guess.

Brent

Not oil stains...I guess that's why the wood inside is sound. If I decide to keep the gun and use the oxalic I will report back.


Thanks, Rob

To my old eye it looks like area's that the finish has worn off and now the wood is discolored by dirt. I have removed this in checked areas by mild recuting.
bill

Thanks Bill, I like that hypothesis.

Builder, does the oxalic acid need to be neutralized after it's done it's work so as not to affect the metal?

Rob

I did not have any areas touching metal. Since it is an acid I would think it would be wise to use baking soda to neutralize. It should bubble although I think it will be minor due to the weakness in the solution you are using. Good thinking. Also a little spray of laquer on the metal touching the wood as a barier would be wise.

Since there is a bathroom next to my work area I stick the stock under a fine spray from the shower and quickly wipe it off with paper towels. I then let it dry for an hour and go back to work on it. This has worked for me but I don't necessarily recommend it.