doublegunshop.com - home Forums General Discussion DoubleGun BBS @ doublegunshop.com Trial run of damascus B&W finishing

I have a large supply of logwood. I don't use it, hate the stuff. However, i wonder if the logwood has to be boiled with the barrels? Could it be washed on?
I may try this on my next refinish.

Daryl, I's jus foolin with ya. You didn't discourage me. I think the learning curve I went thru will help with determining the "adjustments" of future damascus finishing I'm likely to do.

Bill Brockway,
Yes, I believe you are right about Parkers being B&W finished. I have one with about 75% original finish that is definitely B&W and it is color enhanced with logwood as Dr G. concluded and implemented. I may do a lacquer finish but I'm leaning toward bare. Bare seems so ... real. I put oil on it for the picture of course. Just my tastes, but I like it without the logwood. Logwood seems to get around the crevases and looks a little "artificial" to me. I prefer the true blue in the iron.

Yeti,
I think I can follow that recipe of yours now that I've follow this damascus thingamabob.

Yeti, I never did find out.Are you the guy?
Were you corresponding with my former witch ( wife?)
She was a lousy cook, now maybe I know why.

Is anyone using a "stop-bath" like a baking soda or lime bath to stop the ferric chloride etch?

I'm going to go back over Dr G's article and notes again, but I thought I'd ask.

Chuck, I do. When useing it on knives [ or barrels ] it will keep on working if left unattended. I've used TSP or Windex- don't know what's in it, but it works. Then a clean wash with clear water. Paul

Nicely done. I have to venture down this path shortly on a few projects of my own. Starting with a damascus tomahawk head then one I progress on the process I'll try it on my barrels. Good to read about other folks successes. We owe a lot to Oscar. We are lucky he was so willing to share his experience and know how. I miss him dearly and our talks. Russ

On the difficulties of getting contrast on various barrels (Parker B grade mentioned), I would think the difficulties may be from the two materials being closer metalurgically than a barrel that easily obtains contrasting finish.

If the two materials in the barrels act closer than easily contrasted barrels, the etch would become more critical; too much etch and all the blueing comes off, too little etch and not enough blueing comes off. It may also be necessary for a "pre-etch" of a strong solution of FeCl3 that Oscar mentioned, to "give it some bite". Also, I would try fullstrength rust solution of a few rusts with long dwells before a FeCl3 diluted solution etch.

What about Oscar's recommendation of neutralizing with potassium hydroxide after all processing? I've located potassium hydroxide for photo lab uses.

Does anyone know what Oscar meant by "...a mild potassium hydroxide solution ..."???

I asked him about that one time. I told him we were using a solution of baking soda to neutralize after all processing, and asked did I need to get the KOH instead. He said he didn't see that it would matter, you just need to get the acid neutralized. We have continued using baking soda solution and the barrels haven't corroded. The only thing you have to worry about is if the etchant solution gets under a rib where there is a leak. It will leak back out sometime later on and ruin your finish (or even lock up the gun, if it gets into the action).

About what ratio of baking soda to water are you using?