doublegunshop.com - home Forums General Discussion DoubleGun BBS @ doublegunshop.com Rib Re-Laying illustrated

Mike,
That's great. Did you see anything I could have done better, easier, etc?

Homelessjoe,
The ribs won't help much with regulating. Since the typical 12g has the muzzles contacting each other and the breach ends are not disassembled in this operation, not much convergence regulation concern is there. The main issue in this process is twist. It can be very easily twisted even when wired. I saw Andy _____witz do the leveling on the Shotgun Journal episode where Bruce gets his dad's M21 stripped and re-layed. I used this technique for my 20-28g conversion also and it is less sensitive than you might imagine. I check top and bottom and split any difference. It's a shotgun, not a rifle. If you get in the 10-15 MOA area or less you'll be so close I defy anyone to detect it shooting off-hand on a low gun mount at 40 yrds.

I'd say this job was challenging in that it was intimidating but not technically a difficult task. Heck, it's only soldering. Anyone that has soldered copper plumbing has the basic soldering skills to do the soldering part. Some understanding of the regulating process and using these techniques is about all that is required. Oh yeah! ...and some intestinal fortitude if the gun is a nice one. LOL

BTW Barry,
This is not amazing. Your work is the amazing stuff. This is just plumbing. Nice pics on your thread. Your banknote scroll still is the most attractive I've seen. Bold, smooth.

Mr. Chuck --- I just wanted to compliment you on your tutorial and thank you for offering it to all on the board --- you da man ! Ken

OK-here's the PictureTrail album. Please let me know if additions or corrections need be made, and many thanks to Chuck and Dewey!
http://www.picturetrail.com/gallery/view?p=999&gid=18691676

Drew,
I've gone in a made some edits in the first pages and added some pics.

Thanks for the great post!

When I get home tonight, I'll make up a list of tools and materials needed for the job.

I added the new pic, and think I picked up the changes Chuck. Please continue the thread with any additions so I don't miss them.

Chuck,

I think you've got in nailed. I managed to bump one of the keels on mine before the solder froze and really need to do them again. Since I haven't made any other progress on the gun, I think it'll be a while........

Where did you get your rosin flux? That was the item that took the most time for me to find. I ended up with a gallon of the stuff (it was cheap) which is probably enought to do 500 guns. I had it stored in the garage and I think it froze because it has become 'clumpy' in the jug.

Mike,
Moving the keel should be easy enough. Just wire the end of the ribs for insurance. You can reach in the front bead hole with a dental pick and push it forward.

I found the rosin flux paste at a local electronics store in a little 2-3 oz container. Radio Shack would be a good bet. Acid flux is a bit tougher. I had mine from a Brownell's purchase some yrs ago. I bought a lot of stuff I didn't end up using, like the homogenized paste solder/flux in a syringe. I have some in acid flux and rosin flux. It's solder ground up into a powder and mixed in a paste of the flux. Works well enough but not necessary and it's expensive. Just hardware store 60/40 solder with or without flux core is fine. Just keep the acid core stuff for only the tinning and rosin core for joining.