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Joined: Aug 2008
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Sidelock
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Sidelock
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At about 3:30 into this video, Ian Sweetman shows how to take apart a WR boxlock with the WR C-bolt top lever.

WR boxlock

Ken

Joined: Dec 2001
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Sidelock
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Originally Posted by bushveld
Why do you not do as SKB stated?

You missed: "The sliding top bolt is connected internally to the double underbolts with no obvious way to separate. IF there is a screw, not getting to it with the bolt in place."


Mike
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Originally Posted by SKB
This is mine, you slide the top bolt out to the rear, under it is the top tang pin. The top lever screws into a yoke that engages with the double under bite bolt.

I will take another look at this. I have been trying to remove that upper bolt the entire time I have been messing with this action.
May have missed something.


Mike
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Sidelock
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Originally Posted by SKB
Slide the the third bite locking bolt out toward the rear of the gun, you should then see the top tang screw.

That is the first C-bolt third bite I have seen with a round hole in it.

The screw is attached to the toplever/bolt return spring.
With it removed the locking bolts are free moving fore and aft.


Mike
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Sidelock
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These two posts got it done!
SKB shows a lug that fits into the top bolt. In the video, he shows depressing the lug to remove the top bolt.
I used a punch to push down on the screw boss and it moved down like the lug in these two examples.

This was enough information to be confident that the top bolt would move rearward given enough motivation.

Originally Posted by SKB
[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]

This is mine, you slide the top bolt out to the rear, under it is the top tang pin. The top lever screws into a yoke that engages with the double under bite bolt.

Originally Posted by KDGJ
At about 3:30 into this video, Ian Sweetman shows how to take apart a WR boxlock with the WR C-bolt top lever.

WR boxlock

Ken


Mike
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Sidelock
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The action is full, very full of crud. The top bolt would not move rearward enough for removal.
It took a brass punch and some tap, tap, tap and if finally went rearward enough for removal.

Thank you all!


[Linked Image from i.postimg.cc]

[Linked Image from i.postimg.cc]


Mike
3 members like this: bushveld, Ted Schefelbein, SKB
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Sidelock
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Stripped, cleaned and reassembled with light lube over entirety and a grease where appropriate.

Barrel proofs are 12ga and the both bores are .730"
Bad news is some notable pitting on the exterior of both barrels under forend.
I could measure barrel wall thickness and strike the tubes, but there are a couple pits on each that are clearly too deep to remove and leave sufficient wall thickness.

Mechanically sound(though worn), tight on the face, no cracks in the buttstock.
Choices would be to sell it as a sleever, or it would make an interesting cutaway.

[Linked Image from i.postimg.cc]

[Linked Image from i.postimg.cc]

[Linked Image from i.postimg.cc]

[Linked Image from i.postimg.cc]


Mike
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