doublegunshop.com - home Forums General Discussion DoubleGun BBS @ doublegunshop.com Disassembly of early Anson & Deeley Shotgun

Purchased this A&D that has been rode hard.
No name on action exterior. Rebarreled and barrels carry name of shop that did the barrel work.

Attempting to remove buttstock as part of a detail strip and clean.

Pivoting top lever w/ sliding bolt.
Have removed floor plate, trigger guard, top lever and sear axle pin.

Unable to remove trigger plate and triggers.

There are screws in front of the triggers(floor plate is separate) and at the rear under the guard tang.
What is NOT visible is the typical screw under the top lever.
It may be concealed by the sliding top bolt, but the bolt is also not obviously removable.

Yes, pictures will be forthcoming as time allows, but wanted to ask the question while I had the chance.

Suggested books? YouTube videos?

Thank you.

Just a wild guess that it could have a draw bolt in the stock?

The sliding bolt should have a square hole in it, push the plunger down in the square hole and then slide the bolt out of the gun. The top tang screw should now be visible, remove it and proceed as normal.

No access under the butt plate.

Were draw bolts even in use in the 1870 & 80s?

No pics yet, have not been in my shop at all today.

Lefusil should know.....


Serbus,

Raimey
rse

Current state of disassembly. Unable to remove trigger plate.
Hammers are in fired position to remove the sear axle pin(not pictured) as that is required on some shotguns.


EDIT: Screw in top tang attaches the sliding bolt to the return spring/mechanism inside the action.
It is a short screw and does not attach to the trigger plate.

Slide the the third bite locking bolt out toward the rear of the gun, you should then see the top tang screw.

That is the first C-bolt third bite I have seen with a round hole in it.

Does moving the Safety affect anything or show that the triggers are not binding?


Serbus,

Raimey
rse

Nothing notable(for removal) changes when moving safety.

If you look at second picture, there is, what may be, the end of a screw behind the triggers. It does not extend through top tang.

That screw may hold the trigger group to the lower plate?


Serbus,


Raimey
rse

It appears there is a screw hole under that bar you mentioned?


Serbus,

Raimey
rse

Saw that.
Not directly in line, but if it ends anywhere(on the exterior), it is just ahead of the word "SAFE"

Good Eye & that's the culprit.


Serbus,

Raimey
rse

The sliding top bolt is connected internally to the double underbolts with no obvious way to separate. IF there is a screw, not getting to it with the bolt in place.

I'm looking for this piece of advice that says "Remove X to get to screw"

I am not convinced. IF it is the other end of the screw, this action was assembled to never be taken apart.

You may be right as that screw that lands up @ >>SAFE<< could be under the triggerplate?


Serbus,

Raimey
rse

The two location are not in line. Bottom is approx. 1/8" forward of the "SAFE".

Still tinkering.

Why do you not do as SKB stated?

This is mine, you slide the top bolt out to the rear, under it is the top tang pin. The top lever screws into a yoke that engages with the double under bite bolt.

The small screw end showing behind the triggers is likely the Trigger tension spring attachment.

The small screw end showing above the 'SAFE' marking is probably part of the safety assembly inside.
** note that the SAFE marking is engraved/inlayed onto a separate small plate that is dovetailed into the top tang all the way across the tang.
The screw end intersects that dovetail, very slightly.
If you get to the point where that screw needs to be removed,,the dovetailed plate w/SAFE on it should be removed first.
Otherwise turning that screw out may damage that plate, the dovetail being part of it.

At about 3:30 into this video, Ian Sweetman shows how to take apart a WR boxlock with the WR C-bolt top lever.

WR boxlock

Ken

You missed: "The sliding top bolt is connected internally to the double underbolts with no obvious way to separate. IF there is a screw, not getting to it with the bolt in place."

I will take another look at this. I have been trying to remove that upper bolt the entire time I have been messing with this action.
May have missed something.

The screw is attached to the toplever/bolt return spring.
With it removed the locking bolts are free moving fore and aft.

These two posts got it done!
SKB shows a lug that fits into the top bolt. In the video, he shows depressing the lug to remove the top bolt.
I used a punch to push down on the screw boss and it moved down like the lug in these two examples.

This was enough information to be confident that the top bolt would move rearward given enough motivation.

The action is full, very full of crud. The top bolt would not move rearward enough for removal.
It took a brass punch and some tap, tap, tap and if finally went rearward enough for removal.

Thank you all!

Stripped, cleaned and reassembled with light lube over entirety and a grease where appropriate.

Barrel proofs are 12ga and the both bores are .730"
Bad news is some notable pitting on the exterior of both barrels under forend.
I could measure barrel wall thickness and strike the tubes, but there are a couple pits on each that are clearly too deep to remove and leave sufficient wall thickness.

Mechanically sound(though worn), tight on the face, no cracks in the buttstock.
Choices would be to sell it as a sleever, or it would make an interesting cutaway.