Be aware that you will get recommendations from guys who really don't know the difference between a good period correct restoration, and a simple refinish. It takes a bit of research to find out what finishes were used at the time your gun was built, what the correct case hardening colors looked like, which parts were blued and which were case hardened, etc.
For example, I have an L.C. Smith Field Grade Featherweight 16 ga. that had a dark and severely alligatored stock finish. By the appearance, I was certain it was shellac, so removed most of it with methyl alcohol and refinished it with garnet shellac. The result was very pleasing without screaming "refinished". But I also have a newer 12 gauge Ideal Grade that appears to have a factory original varnish finish. Factories do sometimes change their finishing methods, like in the 1980's when GM totally forgot how to paint cars.
I know of one guy who was often recommended for Lefever restorations. Unfortunately, his case colors weren't even close to original Lefever colors, and he only did a brown and white finish for Damascus barrels. Lefever original Damascus barrel rust bluing was always black and white. He did real nice work, but much of it was wrong.
We have no idea what the current condition of your gun is, but it is likely that the cost of a good restoration will exceed the current value. And if the gun is already in nice condition, any work done may actually lower the value. I'm not a big fan of restorations or refinishing, except on guns that have been abused or really neglected. I'll take a 70% original finish over a 100% incorrect refinish any day. But I'll admit that a very well done period correct restoration job can be hard to argue with.
