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Joined: Nov 2021
Posts: 468 Likes: 149
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Nov 2021
Posts: 468 Likes: 149 |
I work on guns, build gunstocks and build musical instruments. My opinion FWIW is that I know of no glue that you can remove well and easily enough to not damage the checkered butt. Trying to remove it is almost certainly going to pull individual checkering points loose. The only removeable glue that I have ever used has been old fashioned horse hide glue which is the standard on fine instruments but it requires heat or steam. The pad could be removed but cleaning out the checkering would be a nightmare. It is extremely hard when set. That glue is used because it is removeable, but it is done with the intent of a repair or adjustment and it is always in an unfinished location for construction purposes.
I think any approach to this question is a bad idea. It is your gun and the decision is up to you. If you proceed the only method I think would yield a good fit is to lay the butt level on a thick board, carefully mark the butt shape on the board and cut out the curve. Then use the cut as a form to stack individual layers of leather as you glue them up to proper thickness. When you finish the laminations, trim it to match the stock sides, finish and glue on.
In no way do I think this could be a way to protect the checkered butt. I believe the very implementation is going to irreversibly damage it. I don't know that I have ever seen a 410 with enough LOP. I would use a leather slip on with no question.
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Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 6,457 Likes: 336
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 6,457 Likes: 336 |
Since the existing buttstock probably is not flat at the butt, you can cast a black spacer to make a flat surface to work on without destroying the butt grooves or checkering. Stretch Saran Wrap over the butt and tape it down on the side of the stock securely . Then use masking tape or similar to form an edge around the butt, making sort of a dam. Black epoxy, or similar, can be poured as thick as needed and it will conform to the existing butt and you can shape a flat surface on the other end. Then apply your pad material. I have seen this same thing done using the epoxy to form a full thickness extension . It doesn't look too bad and the original butt will be saved.
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2 members like this:
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Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 14,016 Likes: 1819
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 14,016 Likes: 1819 |
Since the existing buttstock probably is not flat at the butt, you can cast a black spacer to make a flat surface to work on without destroying the butt grooves or checkering. Stretch Saran Wrap over the butt and tape it down on the side of the stock securely . Then use masking tape or similar to form an edge around the butt, making sort of a dam. Black epoxy, or similar, can be poured as thick as needed and it will conform to the existing butt and you can shape a flat surface on the other end. Then apply your pad material. I have seen this same thing done using the epoxy to form a full thickness extension . It doesn't look too bad and the original butt will be saved. Excellent idea! This may be a future project for me to try.
May God bless America and those who defend her.
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Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 1,160 Likes: 3
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 1,160 Likes: 3 |
Actually, I wonder if a sort of lip or rim could be set up in the epoxy piece or with another material so that there is a “belt” around the stock. The pad could be fit to the epoxy and maybe this rim could be affixed to the stock with some small screws for stability?
Last edited by Montana; 12/11/24 08:15 AM.
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Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 634 Likes: 127
Sidelock
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OP
Sidelock
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 634 Likes: 127 |
I found the built up leather unsatisfactory and will find a regular pad and sacrifice the checkered butt
This ain't a dress rehearsal , Don't Let the Old Man IN
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