doublegunshop.com - home Forums General Discussion DoubleGun BBS @ doublegunshop.com Solid leather glue on pad

I am going to visit an Amish Leather craftsman and have him make me a solid leather pad about 1/2" thick. Then I think it can be glued on the end of a checkered butt without having to cut off the checkering. In that way if I ever do want to remove it, it should be possible. I am looking for glueing recommendations, like contact cement or a version of Locktite?

I'm considering something similar. I think I'm going to use two tiny screws or tacks. I think the screw holes could be filled with wood filler in the future, the checkering touched up, a little dye, and it would be invisible.

Have you tried a Pachmayer slip on pad?

With the Velcro tab pulled up firmly they don’t slop about.

I have a small drawer full of Kick Killer Pads, in all sizes, that I use for that Jeff. I have many guns that are too short in the LOP for me and never wanted to mess up a nice grooved or checkered butt to add a recoil pad. When laced on these don't move at all, and as an added feature they provide substantial felt recoil reduction. Velcro attached ones do the same. I just always preferred the lace on appearance. Just a personal issue there, though.

A checkered butt is not square and the checkering provides an uneven surface for an adhesive. I don’t see how it will work, or look for that matter. As Stan suggested a lace up, or an elasticised slip on pad would be a place to start. I’ve bought the elastic pads off eBay and I like them better than the Velcro fastened ones.

I have slip on pads with the stretchy material that makes them fit ok. The gun is a 410, scaled down so the stock butt is a little small so some slips ons are too big. I don't need recoil reduction and was thinking hard leather like a good shoe sole would protect the butt, add length and not mess up the checkering. If black or dark brown it might end up looking good as well. The glue part is the question.

A couple of thoughts pop to mind. If I were to try something like this I would want the surface of the pad to have the maximum amount of contact with the butt. For glue, my first thought would be barge cement which is used in leather shoe repair and for leather covered recoil pads. Let us know how you make out.

We would sure like pictures of the finished product.

First off, this guy is great. Very friendly, a shooter. He is going to make some pads in a few different sizes at the thickness I wants, die it dark brown and use a rough textured leather for the top layer, so it won't slip in the shoulder. He thinks about a week.
He makes all kinds of things including holsters, see web
silverstarleather.com

His name is Loren

This sounds like an interesting project, if you can pull it off. The major problem I see is finding a reversible adhesive that could hold your fabricated leather pad on securely, and without gaps, and also be easy to remove without damage in the future.

Titebond makes a reversible glue that I believe is a hide glue. Hide Glues can be softened and removed by applying water, steam, or heat. But that means your pad might become loose if it got wet in a duck blind or boat. Hide Glue isn't very strong either.

Silicone can be used as an adhesive, and it can be pulled or peeled off without too much effort. It is waterproof too. But personally, I don't like using any silicone products on anything that might need refinished at some point. Silicone contamination can give you fits during wood refinishing or rust bluing.

Auto Body shops are using Hot Melt glues to glue pulling tabs on dented body panels in the PDR (Paintless Dent Removal) System. After the dent is pulled, they use a solvent like alcohol or acetone to soften and remove the Hot Melt Adhesive. The question is whether you could get enough applied to your stock butt or pad, and secure it in place before it cooled, and would no longer stick properly.

Before I committed to doing this to a nice gun, I think I'd experiment with a junk stock to test adhesion, appearance, and ability to reverse it. Nothing ventured, nothing gained, but if it didn't work, it would be better to find out on a junk stock.

I've used a local Amish Tack & Harness Shop to do some repairs on old Leg O' Mutton gun cases. I was surprised to see that your Amish leather guy has a website. I never heard of any of the Dutchies around me using a computer, and there is still a pay phone a few miles up the road from me that they use to make calls. They plow with draft horses, and only use some old tractors for stationary power... but it can't have rubber tires. The Dutchman who made the oak flooring for my house had electric power running right past his house, and to a service pole behind his wood shop. He used electric power to run a single large motor outside, and a flat leather belt ran inside to turn an overhead line-shaft which ran his saws, jointer, planers, molder, etc. Yet even though he had power right out back, he used kerosene lamps and Coleman lanterns for lighting inside the shop. They are stubborn and resist change, so they must have been very upset about things to come out and openly support Trump this year.