Along with repairing the split, I'd check to see what may be causing it.
A good repair w/o finding an obvious cause can leave you with a identicle split right next to the solid repair.

The wood screw being tapered is good culprit being tighten and spliting the wood near the end of the piece.
But often it's the fit of the inlet areas for the bbls at the rear areas that are somewhat tight.
When the forend is pushed into place , there's not enough room for the bbls to lay down just snug into the inlets for them in the wood. So the wood gets pried apart for lack of a better term. Both edges bend down and away causing the center to sometimes crack. The screw hole being right there helps the process develope.

It may be that someone has already seen that and has trimmed the inletting a little. It does look like some scraper marks there.
Blacked the bbls and remount the fore-end as a complete assembly on the bbl'ed action and carefully watch as it swings closed and locks into position. See if it seems to fit a bit too tight right up at the recv'r end.
Then take it off and check for what appears as blacked areas of contact that are slightly burnished indicating more pressure between the bbls and wood than necessary.


In addition the Damascus excellent repair method, I sometimes place a 'staple' or Dumbell across the cracked area. Here it would be on the rear face of the forend wood and buried in strong epoxy.
You have to dig a hole/trench out for the metal fixture, a chisel/chisels can do it but the old friend the Dremel makes quick work of it especially with small dental burrs.
The Staple can be nothing more than a finishing nail cut to length with each end bent 90* for a leg. Each leg then adds holding power to the set up to keep the wood assembly from further splitting when burried in the epoxy.
A Dumbell is the same idea but is any small machine screw with a nut screwed onto the end. Clip the excess threads off so it fits in the cavern you have carved out.
The head and nut on the screw provide the 'legs' as on the Staple.

Once the epoxy is set, trim it flush. The forend iron when remounted won't even show.
The same idea can be used on the top surface, but then the efforts will show on each side of the F/E iron tang.
I use this on the head of stocks quite frequently to prevent or better fix cracks.
It's an old idea.