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3 members (Jtplumb, R. Glenz, 1 invisible),
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Forums10
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Most Online1,344 Apr 29th, 2024
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Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 3,106 Likes: 339
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 3,106 Likes: 339 |
I consider my only phone conversation with Kirk Merrington, about 25 years ago for some help with a Greener stock removal, which he walked me through most patiently, as one of nicest ever with a true gentleman and professional gunsmith. JR
Be strong, be of good courage. God bless America, long live the Republic.
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Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 114 Likes: 1
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 114 Likes: 1 |
I highly recommend reaching out to Dan Morgan, Fine Firearms Restoration, VT. 8024574828
I spent the better part of a day at his shop this spring getting a Fox A grade hook to latch correctly. I learned a ton from him as he fixed the Fox and showed me several very nice Scottish and British guns, and particularly the quality of the finish on the interior parts.
He specializes in Scottish and British best guns and is a top notch guy.
-Tom
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1 member likes this:
spring |
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Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 116 Likes: 3
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 116 Likes: 3 |
I have had work done by most of the gunsmiths recommended above over the last 25 years in this hobby and agree with all of the recommendations. One man that has not been mentioned that should be is JJ Perodeau in Oklahoma. JJ is a fully trained European gunsmith who not only works on many fine shotguns but also many double rifles which is unique. He also turns work around much more quickly than many other smiths. Here is his website: https://jjperodeau.comAs to the issue at hand, I now have every newly purchased gun stripped and cleaned by my local gunsmith unless I have bought it from a shop that has already done so prior to marketing the gun.
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1 member likes this:
BrentD, Prof |
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Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 76 Likes: 3
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 76 Likes: 3 |
I do not disagree with any of the smiths mentioned but one needs to be aware of exactly who will be working on a fine double or O/U when repairs or maintenance are needed. Some of the smiths mentioned may have an apprentice on hand that will doing some, or all, of the work.
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Joined: Feb 2016
Posts: 148 Likes: 108
Sidelock
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OP
Sidelock
Joined: Feb 2016
Posts: 148 Likes: 108 |
I used to hear a lot about JJ back when I was going on safaris years ago; haven't thought about him in a while. My double rifle is also a sidelock. As you mentioned, he's really highly regarded with them. He does retail and repair, right? I've had good conversations with two of the guys mentioned previously; leaning towards the one that said he should be able to get the gun good to in a month as compared to six. As you might imagine, having this all wrapped up before the fall has appeal.
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Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 1,478 Likes: 16
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 1,478 Likes: 16 |
That is a lovely rifle! .375 Flanged H&H?
C Man Life is short Quit your job. Turn off the TV. Go outside and play.
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Joined: Feb 2016
Posts: 148 Likes: 108
Sidelock
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OP
Sidelock
Joined: Feb 2016
Posts: 148 Likes: 108 |
Thanks, Chukarman, and I’ve really enjoyed this gun. It’s a .470 NE, which works well on disagreeable creatures. Beretta used to make these at this level and they aren’t easy to find these days. Here’s the first page of when this gun was featured in the Doublegun Journal shortly before I bought it:
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Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 1,826 Likes: 12
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 1,826 Likes: 12 |
I've had quite a few American hammer guns that I'm sure never had the locks off in over a 100 years. On any of those that I've taken the locks off of, the left hammer has to be removed many times to get to the screw running from the left lock to the right lock. If it's backed off a couple of turns, the back side of a screwdriver can be used to tap on the screw head. This will unseat the right lock. Continue to remove the cross screw. It can then be used if left in its hole just a bit to pry the back of the left lock out a bit so it can be removed. The right lock should be out a bit, but again the same screw can be used in it's hole to pry a bit. The front of the lock plates have a small extension that goes in the receiver. That cross screw is what hold the back half tight against the wood. When putting the locks back in many times the triggers have have to be kept forward so the sears will fit by them. You get the locks out and some WD-40 then some compressed air to blow them out followed up by a little oil is all it should take. I wouldn't go any farther than that unless you have some working knowledge of how the locks work. You'd need a spring vise to compress the main spring. And it's very, very easy to break off the small pin sticking out of the spring into the lock plate. Good luck finding another. It's not that hard to take them out, clean and oil em back up. Good luck.
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Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 6,791 Likes: 444
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 6,791 Likes: 444 |
I've had quite a few American hammer guns that I'm sure never had the locks off in over a 100 years. On any of those that I've taken the locks off of, the left hammer has to be removed many times to get to the screw running from the left lock to the right lock. If it's backed off a couple of turns, the back side of a screwdriver can be used to tap on the screw head. This will unseat the right lock. Continue to remove the cross screw. It can then be used if left in its hole just a bit to pry the back of the left lock out a bit so it can be removed. The right lock should be out a bit, but again the same screw can be used in it's hole to pry a bit. The front of the lock plates have a small extension that goes in the receiver. That cross screw is what hold the back half tight against the wood. When putting the locks back in many times the triggers have have to be kept forward so the sears will fit by them. You get the locks out and some WD-40 then some compressed air to blow them out followed up by a little oil is all it should take. I wouldn't go any farther than that unless you have some working knowledge of how the locks work. You'd need a spring vise to compress the main spring. And it's very, very easy to break off the small pin sticking out of the spring into the lock plate. Good luck finding another. It's not that hard to take them out, clean and oil em back up. Good luck. Oh my god!!!! WD-40 in a gun lock! Sure to be a catastrophy.... Just kidding. It is pretty easy to remove locks usually. I enjoy doing it occasionally and when first acquired, and it has never been a problem.
_________ BrentD, (Professor - just for Stan)
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