|
|
|
S |
M |
T |
W |
T |
F |
S |
|
|
1
|
2
|
3
|
4
|
5
|
6
|
|
7
|
8
|
9
|
10
|
11
|
12
|
13
|
|
14
|
15
|
16
|
17
|
18
|
19
|
20
|
|
21
|
22
|
23
|
24
|
25
|
26
|
27
|
|
28
|
29
|
30
|
31
|
|
|
|
|
|
6 members (Argo44, The Baron, Borderbill, R Reynolds, texraid, 1 invisible),
1,544
guests, and
5
robots. |
|
Key:
Admin,
Global Mod,
Mod
|
|
|
Forums10
Topics39,659
Posts563,800
Members14,603
| |
Most Online9,918 Jul 28th, 2025
|
|
|
|
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 4,598
Sidelock
|
Sidelock
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 4,598 |
JC, Yep, I have it, from you of course...  Pete
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 231
Sidelock
|
Sidelock
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 231 |
An excellent 'How To Article' is in Shotgun Technicana by Michael McIntosh & David Trevallion. I've done several leather recoil pads for my own guns. I suggest that you use pre-dyed goat skin and not pig skin. The goat skin stretches much nicer and is easier to work with. I stretch the goat skin wet and apply Weldwood Contact cement along the edges to secure to the rubber recoil pad. If you insist on using Barge cement, you can purchase from Tandy Leather. The Tandy brand contact cement also is excellent and you may apply to dry or wet leather. Goat skin is available from several E-Bay sellers. I think that I paid about $28 for the last small goat skin hide on E-Bay.
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 1,160 Likes: 3
Sidelock
|
Sidelock
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 1,160 Likes: 3 |
May not be a factor but keep in mind that you need to check how the leather was cured, tanned, processed as some will react with metal, fyi.
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 231
Sidelock
|
Sidelock
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 231 |
I was looking through some 'how to files' that I previously had copied. I have the complete C.J.Opacak 'Leather covered pads how to photo history'. Please send me a PM with your address and I will Xerox and forward to you.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|