Max
Not locking the RIB in place but rather the forarm itself. On mine to remove the forearm you have to push up on the knurled wheel thats in the center of the forarm iron. Then to replace it and make sure its locked in place, you will see a part of that knurled wheel that is not knurled. That section of no knurl has to rotate till it disapears under the iron. When this happens you should hear a noticable "snap" or "click. Some guns may require a gentle tap with your open hand to have this happen.
Eighbore:
I didnt want to reply to your question of cost of a re-solder till I found my reciet from Mr.Yale.
The date on the reciet is Feb 24th of 01.
The total amount was $100.00 for the resolder (one HUNDRED dollars)
and 20.13 for shipping and 2000.00 insurence.
Prices surly have changed!
I hunt this gun,, and by no means is it a closet dweller! The repair has held up beatifully and the re-blue looks like its sposed to. The blue on the barrels is a rust blue, while the blue on the frame/action was "machined blued" on early guns.
On later guns the frame /reciever were Du-Lite blued, that gives the frame and trigger guard a deeper blacker blue! the barrels and Frame are sposed to look a little different!
If MR Yale is still doing restoration/ smithing work,, I highly reccomend him!!
Nice guy! owns Labradors too!! First class dude in my book!!
Gooser
Last edited by Blackdog; 09/17/07 03:46 PM.
