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Joined: Nov 2015
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Sidelock
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Just peeked in to see, you guys rock! Thanks for the help!

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Sidelock
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I once made the mistake of having a LGS install a pad. Amazingly bad. Then I moved and tried a different LGS for the same operation on the next gun, but the same thing happened again. You are right, pad installation is apparently over the heads of some gunsmiths. But I was thinking in your case that maybe that feathered wood is just a little unstable for some reason. I've seen that with some nongun projects in my shop. Hard to tell from photos though.


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BrentD, (Professor - just for Stan)
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Sidelock
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Looks good!

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I thought you was supposed to be down in the prO'fessional section...

Cuddled up with SKB and singing songs about ya'lls greatness around the kAmp fire.

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Nice Job Rick, looks great!


Firearms imports, consignments


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I went to home depot and bought a piece of highly polish 12" x 12" granite flooring and spay adhered a piece of 180 grain sandpaper.

I run my wood but end on this until I have full contact and then I do the same thing to the underside of the recoil pad. I get 100% contact between the two doing this. When the sides are dressed down it looks awesome.

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So what did you end up doing to get it right?

Please do tell.

Looks great.

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Sidelock
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Patience! And more coats, its curing now. I think my problem was not letting the finish cure long enough before knocking it back, and as Brent suggested some of the figure was raised creating issues. Once I got that leveled out it came together! I got a few more to go but I think Im out of the woods! Final coat airing before it goes on the box!

Last edited by RARiddell; 02/08/20 04:29 PM.
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Looks really good, thanks for the follow up pictures.

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I don't know what happened to the reply I made last night, but I felt that the problem might have a lot to do with insufficient drying time between coats. I also don't care a lot for BLO as a stand alone stock finish because there are many better choices. BLO is a reactive, rather than evaporative finish. In that regard, it is more like tung oil and varnishes, versus evaporative finishes like shellac or lacquer. So complete curing between coats is very important, and that is why folks that use BLO know how important it is to apply very thin coats, and give it plenty of time to cure. Also, successive coats of reactive finishes don't dissolve into each other, so it is important to lightly scuff them with very fine sandpaper, rottenstone, or fine steel wool between coats for good adhesion. Always follow this up with a tack cloth to remove dust or stray bits of steel wool. If the finish just beneath the surface is still a bit soft or tacky from insufficient curing, this rubbing or sanding between coats can make a mess similar to what you had.

Whatever... it looks like you have things under control now, and it is really looking great. That is a very nice piece of wood.


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