Two easy methods of inspection: 1) "candle" them. Hold hull in front of a bright incandescent bulb. You will see greater translucency above the base wad. Approx. 1/2" long area above brass base will appear darker. Works best with red AAs; sometimes a particularly opaque batch of plastic will make seeing the dark ring of the base wad harder. The older cf AA's do not have the doubling of the hull wall in base wad area and are entirely translucent down to the brass base. 2) Stick an awl, penknife blade, pencil or screwdriver into the mouth of hull and down. The end of the instrument will contact the shoulder of the base wad in the new AAs. You won't find this discontinuity on the interior of the older hull. The bright red vs. dull orange/red plastic composition may be a general giveaway also; I think I'd rather look inside, poke inside, or illuminate from outside. Incidentally, Accurate Arms reloading manual has low-pressure loads for both "AA style" (which most of us take to be the cf hull) and the gray Supersports. Course this premises that you're interested in loading Accurate's Solo 1000 or Nitro 100. If you're not certain about the construction of the hull, section one with a knife and have a look; all will be revealed.
jack
