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Joined: Feb 2008
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Sidelock
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Clapper - thanks for the clarification.

Damascus - nice post.

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Sidelock
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I much prefer carnauba wax for my guns. It provides a high degree of waterproofing and is fairly durable. Just be sure it does not contain any silicones which would make any refinishing or touching up problematic. I am skeptical about renaissance wax, having found it to not be very durable out in the elements. I have also used Johnsons paste wax for decades with great success.


John McCain is my war hero.
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Renaissance Wax microcrystalline polish is also excellent. It can be applied to the wood and metal. A little tin goes a long way.


Owen
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Originally Posted By: SKB
I can not say if you did something wrong but I can tell you I had the same results. I now apply red oil first and finish with a modified oil with Alkenet root powder mixed in, polishing out and filling the pores with rotten stone. Works great. Good thread here with comments at the end from Duane Wiebe that I find interesting.

http://forums.accuratereloading.com/eve/forums/a/tpc/f/7971019521/m/3091026942


I've used this method for a couple of years with excellent results. I does take a while to complete. I use Renaissance Wax but the only harsh conditions my guns see are when I get caught in the rain during a tournament.

Last edited by Ken Nelson; 02/13/19 03:10 PM.

Dodging lions and wasting time.....
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Renessance wax washes right off in the rain...I recall a hunt where I got caught in a hard down pour it washed right off my old Scott.
I've used it for years before it became popular. One thing about it it can be used on materials like ivory without the chance of staining it waxes made for might stain....I'm on my second or third 200 ml can.

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Do you all apply the wax over the checkering?

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I normally avoid applying the wax on the checkering, and use a soft tooth brush to remove it if I get clumsy. I normally apply a light coat of RenWax on the oil finished stocks after a day's outing.
Karl

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The key to applying wax to wood is not to let it dry before polishing.

Applying wax to the checkering is not something you want to do on a regular basis...let it dry in the checkering and you'll have a white mess om your hands. If you use wax on your stock it's pretty much inevitable you'll get some in the checkering. It's always best to have an old tooth brush on hand to quickly brush it out.

Wax can be lightly applied to the checkering with an old soft tooth brush and quickly removed with another.

Some recommend wax on the metal...I recall reading about it in an outdoor book when I was kid. I tried the Johnsons wax on my guns when young...worked okay but nothing is really a good substitute for oil on metal used in the outdoors.

Renaissance wax is more of a curators wax...it's great for anything you use it on in a controlled environment like a museum. It will offer some protection in the field but not as much as a high quality wood wax.

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Here's some wax I bought a couple years ago haven't got around to trying it...one thing I can say I have never been disappointed in any of their products.

This wax is in a liquid state.

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For many years, and from time to time now, I carried a S x S in my farm pickup, wedged beside my driver's seat and the console, loaded but slightly broken open. It was subject to all sorts of ills, so it was a beater gun that cost me $255. Not wanting it to rust I tried keeping oil on it, but it collected copious amounts of dust in the oil. Not good.

I finally took to waxing it heavily with my old can of Johnson's wax. Worked like a charm. Didn't attract dust and kept the rust at bay for extended periods. I've used it (Johnson's) for more years, for rainy day hunting, than I care to recall. I kept a dishcloth over the open action to keep the dust out.



SRH


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