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1 members (Jtplumb),
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Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 1,852 Likes: 151
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 1,852 Likes: 151 |
Actually removing the bluing is the easy and cheap portion of the job. There are commercial 'bluing remover' chemicals for that purpose or you can use stuff like 'Naval Jelly' or any of the home brew like vinegar. Most any lightly acidic soln will remove it.
Getting to that point involves complete disassembly if you want to do it correctly. The LCS isn't one of the pop the pins and it falls apart type guns and reassembly seems to make mosts hands tremble though the tried and true Factory methods still work just fine on the bench.
This particular LCS looks heavily machine buffed prior to bluing. Those rounded over corners and washed out engraving lines aren't coming back to life just from removing the bluing. Some of the metal to metal fit looks pretty severely damaged. W/o seeing it better, I'd have to wonder if the bbl's haven't gone thru the hot salt blue tank also. That's a real issue to deal with in most instances. It could use a real restoration not just a bluing removal.
The cut bbls(?),,auction says 'Spl Order Length @ 29"..? but offers no Letter info, the pad, wood cracks and other problems make it a real project gun but on something that may be worth putting some time into at least. Probably not if you have to pay someone else to do the work though and you're thinking of a profit in a turnover.
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Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 4,504 Likes: 213
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 4,504 Likes: 213 |
al, If you are talking about removing blueing from places like the barrel flats, sides of locking lugs, rear of barrels/extractor, and muzzle; it would typically be removed by hand with something like worn out 320 grit abrasive cloth, backed up with a file. Care should be taken to only remove bluing and not remove any more metal than necessary, and avoid rounding any more corners. Mike
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Joined: Aug 2018
Posts: 305 Likes: 7
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Aug 2018
Posts: 305 Likes: 7 |
Yeah I looked ta that gun and decided the final product would not be worth me taking a chance on it due to the rubbed out engraving. A real shame though.
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Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 1,274 Likes: 1
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 1,274 Likes: 1 |
looking at the fit of the stock; I would guess that it is not the original one. This gun has the early ejectors that used the mainsprings to eject the shell, this system was replaced early on by the later type. Removing the blue on the action parts is simple, CLR from the grocery store works well and is mild compared to some other methods. Depending on how bad the engraving has been polished, it might be saved with hand polish and 600 grit paper. Probably the barrels are cut, a photo of the muzzle would help. 3 grade had a dimple on the top and bottom rib. I wouldn't pay much more than it is at now.
I learn something every day, and a lot of times it's that what I learned the day before was wrong
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Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 1,405
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 1,405 |
The bluing is the least of the problems with that gun.
B.Dudley
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Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 3,738 Likes: 56
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 3,738 Likes: 56 |
The bluing can be taken care of and that would be the least of the problems. As James stated, this gun has the type 1 ejectors that used the mainspring and cocking rods to eject the empties. They are not made anymore if there is a problem with the kickers. They did make 2 with 29" barrels whether this is one who knows unless seeing it in person. The stock I believe is also a replacement. Still a nice gun to own after that Pachmayr recoil pad is replaced. After 1912 the No.3 was discontinued.
David
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Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 13,203 Likes: 1178
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 13,203 Likes: 1178 |
You can't say he doesn't provide enough pics.
SRH
May God bless America and those who defend her.
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