doublegunshop.com - home Forums General Discussion DoubleGun BBS @ doublegunshop.com Checkering cradle

In the past I had promised to post pictures and instructions for building a checkering cradle. I know that some people have said that they only need a couple of shot bags and a towel. I, however, need all the help I can get in fact I really need an extra arm and hand at times. This post is only to show how I did mine and what I used nothing more. I made this cradle over 20 years ago and it has served me well and I use it a lot, I've made a couple of changes to it but nothing of note. Let me say this AGAIN this is my cradle if you choose to build one you can use any material you choose!

The materials that I used are as follows and in no particular order. All materials can be purchased at your local Lowes etc. The rails and tail stocks are made from 2 1/2" by 3/4" and 2 1/2" by 1/2" oak boards. I have two rails, one (33") for shotgun stocks that I use 95% of the time and the other (48") that I use for rifle stocks. I'll use the 33" version for assembly instructions but they basically apply to the 48" version also. First I cut two (2) pieces of the 2 1/2" by 3/4" to 33" in length then I cut a piece of the 2 1/2" by 1/2" to 15" and another to 2", these are my spacers that I will use to laminate together to make a rail. You can do the same for the rifle rail but make the main spacer longer if you wish that is up to you. The rail(s) now need to be glued together using a good wood glue with the long spacer, in the middle, on one end and the short spacer, in the middle, on the other ( I think a photo will show this).

The head and tail stocks are made in the same way. They both are 5 1/2" long, that seems to allow enough clearance over the rail, but that is up to you. The head and tail stock both have a 1/2"? hole drilled into the center of the bottom about 3" deep. This will allow them to be mounted to the rail using 5 1/2" x 1/2" lag screws (with washers). The rail needs a 1/2" hole drilled thru the spacer to allow the head stock to be attached ( As my buddy Glenn would say "work with me here.").

I'm going to stop here post some photos and pick this up later.
https://imgur.com/DekTppz
https://imgur.com/y16nxbo
https://imgur.com/mPyKksO
https://imgur.com/5Drfit9

Nice

Thanks Bobby

Quite honestly I know how to post pictures but I was in a hurry. I won't make that mistake again!

Very nice. Your work is exceptional.

Fabulous. Thank you Doug.

Good info, but 99% of us here need to stay far away from any checkering tools. I'm just saying...
JR

Thanks Doug. Always great to see a real pro's equipment.

Ok, I'm back. Some explanation of the construction of both the head and tail stock are in order. I'll take the head stock first, mine is of the same laminate as the rail or main beam and is 5 1/2" long. I drilled a 5/16" hole in the center (bottom?) of the head stock and made it about 3" deep. I used a 5" x 3/8" lag bolt with a couple of flat washers between the bolt head and the rail to attach the head stock to the rail. I also drilled a 1/2" hole in the long spacer in the rail a couple of inches from the end so I could locate the head stock.

My head stock fixture to hold the front of a stock is made as follows. I cut a 2 1/2" x 2 1/2" x 3/4" piece for the bottom and used 4 pieces of thin oak to make the sides to a 2 3/4" depth in total (your results may vary) then I drilled 5/16" hole in the center of the bottom piece (if you look at the photos you'll understand). I recessed hole in the bottom so that I could insert a 1/4" x 4" threaded bolt with a washer and the top of the bolt would be lower that the surrounding wood. That would keep the head of the stock from being damaged (I also inserted a piece of thick leather over the bolt head just in case). I drilled a 5/16" hole in the center of the head stock 1 1/4" from the top, placed the 1/4" bolt in the hole in the fixture, placed 2 (two)washers (think disc brake here) on the bolt and placed it through the hole in the head stock. I placed a washer on the bolt and put 2 nuts on the bolt, the first nut is tightened and the second is used as a am nut. I know there are a myriad of others ways to do this but this is what I had at the time.

I'm posting a photo of a forend that I did a number of years ago (photo credit to SDH ) other than I could not have done this without a checkering cradle!

Fine checkering work, craftsmanship at it's best.

Doug, is that the ACGG Remington Pigeon Gun from a few years back? Beautiful work and if it is, I had the hots for that gun.....loved it.

Yes, it is the ACGG Remington 1894. It was a wonderful project!